Sorry to hear about the crack…been following your read a while and doing a great deal of research…May I suggest you cut an insert in your board and replace the wood blocking with 6 lb. Density Last A Foam. It’s what is commonly used by pro builders…or has someone found this not to be a viable options for eFoils??
Also found this place, which may be of value for those, like myself, with less than Mat’s skill at board shaping. The page shows pics of the cutout and insert of the 6 lb foam. They will even shape a board to your spec. Have not heard back on price yet???
I am awaiting an APS80100 now. My biggest concern is the foil/prop combo as I push the high end of the scale at 100+/-5 kg depending on the day. I do see there is a nice prop option now. But I wonder which the available foils would be best suited: Liquid Force, Slingshot, or alternative?
After closer investigation, I realized I was using screws too short to engage in the nuts that I embedded in the wooden box…
so I basically just broke the layer of epoxy / glass between the box and the mast. A bit of epoxy to fill the gaps, longer screws and back on the water to test that new prop following @PowerGlider suggestion
Regarding the foam, I already used the 4 lb version to build a board for surf foil. I added a carbon patch between the foam and the glass, on top of the rails …
I hit the sand a few time while on the board and it’s going strong.
For efoil, it should work too, but the tracks might not be needed as you might not be able to use the adjustment depending on how you deal with sealing the connection. The foam is still good to spread the load though…
for the prop, the one from @foiledagain I posted a week ago works very well… I’ll post the performance of the new one once I get to test it.
Regarding the foil, if you go for a surf wing it should be fine…
a lot of brands now are offering different size wing depending on the rider’s weight. I’m a bit partial to liquid force (using the same set of wings for efoil, surf foil, kite foil). The impulse should work great… slingshot will have more wing choice, you’ll find 3d models ready for those 2. There are plenty of other options tested on the forum usable with slight modification of the models
I’m experimenting with the data from the my previous test to have a method to see the effect of smaller improvements in design when this one will be tested…
I think I’ll do another version where the motor side opens to be able to fill it up with foam… I’m sure this one will fill up with water and won’t last long… but I want to evaluate if it’s worth it first
@Mat Hey buddy, I’ve got my Flier 400 all wired up. Do you happen to know the settings you used when you configured your ESC? Maybe a screenshot of your PC config? I wanna go ride tomorrow and make sure I got everything setup right. When I tried a test today the ESC was throttling the motor and weird throttle points on the remote. Almost like it was in eskate mode, but it wasn’t. Anyway, just want to make sure that’s configured. Any help would be great!
I think that’s what I have in it right now:
when all the rest of the setup will be stable, i’ll look at playing with the PWM, start power and full power…
-BATTERY
Lipo
cell count: Auto
LVC cutoff voltage: 3.2V
LVC mode: slow cutoff
-THROTTLE
throttle curve: log
acceleration:soft
set for/Rev points: both at auto
-REVERSE
Reverse OFF
-MOTOR
timing: 20 degrees
PWM: 8khz
Timing monitor:ON
-BRAKE
delay time CAR/BOAT: 0.25s
-POWER
Start power:auto
Full power restriction 100%
Power limits both at OFF
that’s a very good question, i’m not exactly sure… I think it means the ESC is monitoring something and adjusting the timing, but i couldn’t find a proper explanation anywhere…
ah ok, I guess I should try changing it to see the different beep… I didn’t notice any difference when adjusting the timing , not paying attention I guess
I also have a flier ESC. Tonight I had just completed a bunch of wiring improvements. When I went to run my motor I could hear what sounded like the typical beeps. But the ESC would not turn the motor. I swapped parts in and out and disconnected things. Turns out I had programmed the ESC battery of 12S rather than Auto.
Usually when I rewire things I start with just one 6S battery. I jumper around the other battery. Everything usually works fine. This time nothing. As soon as I changed the ESC setting from 12S to Auto it started working again. Unfortunately I tore allot of stuff apart before I figured it out.
I might be wrong, but the way I understood it, log helps to get finer control in the lower speed range. During the first try with my first version of remote, I had issues with the speed ramping up too fast making starting up difficult… that helped.
My motor beeps each time the connection is lost, but i don’t mind it… helps to know why the board is not moving my remote is working at 433 or 315 MHz so i don’t loose connection too much, only when the remote gets a feet below water.
Hey Guys, anybody running the Swordfish 300 ESC? Mines working well with me or my lad riding (40kg and 80kg) however when I get a heavier guy on it the ESC keeps cutting out. I’m no expert on the settings but with the current limiter off I wonder why this is. Any ideas?
Hey Mat, how’s your redesigned prop working out? I threw a blade today, funny tho, could still foil home! Which makes me think of printing a two blader??
Try “current limiting” : high maybe
And if running outrunner : 16mhz , 8 lis really for small inrunner with 4 -6 poles
Try to read the log files to see if the cut are not temp cut , it can high amp on start when heavier or voltage cut , you should sélect the correct number of cells when high than 8s ( voltage sag )
did you hit something or is it just too much flexing? for the second, a layer of fiber glass or carbon helps to keep it stiffer.
I couldn’t try it yet… bad windy weather
I’d be curious to see how 2 blades compares…
I’ve thrown a few blades during this journey. It always seems to be when the chunky boys get on the board! Standby for a two blade review this weekend.
