80100 Motor Issues- Chugging & Studdering

Ok boys… I think I did her in. Smoked it…

I finally got it to turn over using 30degrees of timing, 50% start power (it was set to auto), 8khz pwm. Not sure which one of those, in particular got it going but it started spinning. It started rough then sped up quickly. Even at full speed it did not sound quite right. probably 3 seconds into it spinning it started smoking pretty badly. I let it run wide open for a few seconds after I saw smoke (either because I was so excited that it was finally spinning or because I was so angry that it was smoking). I stopped it and as soon as it was cool enough to handle I took it apart. I was hoping that I would be able to feel specifically where it got hot so I could locate the short but the entire thing was super hot. Surprisingly, I did not notice any visible damage. No burnt spots, no melted wires or epoxy, nothing out of the ordinary. There was one small area that had some white residue (likely from the smoke).

All of this would indicate some type of short right? Perhaps the windings were shorted somewhere beneath the outer windings so any damage would be buried and not visible? Somewhere underneath the white spot. What else could cause the motor to smoke?

Looks like ill be buying yet another motor from Alien. (This will be my 5th!) I may take a stab at rewinding this one as well if i can figure out how to unbury the windings from all the epoxy I put on there.

Maybe now that you have it apart you could experiment by applying a small voltage source and isolate where it gets hot.

I have burned up 2 of those motors and removed the wire from both. I know what not to do. Don’t soak the winding’s in Acetone for about a day, the epoxy or super glue they use will turn turn gooey. With a lot of effort you will be able to remove a tangled mess of wire. Unfortunately the Acetone will also soften the green powder coat that is painted on the stater iron plates. The plates will begin to separate at the ends. When the plates separate, the ends are sharp. They can nick the wire insulation when you rewind it. Also if your planning on counting the wraps so you can wind the motor the same as it was, you will wont be able to tell one wrap from the others. I suggest weighing the wire and calculating the number of wraps.

Good idea about weighing the wire. I was thinking the same thing about knowing how to rewind with the same number of counts if i cant remove it cleanly. I am looking into magnet wire currently (pun intended). Looks like there is some higher temp stuff available thats good up to 250C. No that i expect it to get that hot but maybe its just some extra insurance.

have you successfully rewound these motors?

Did you guys ever thought about rewinding one motor with silver or even silver plated wire ? I know it’s expensive (522 USD/kg) but would be interesting to know if it’s worth the try and if it affects (greatly) the motor efficiency.
I’m coming from RC world where we actually see this kind of (small) motors and was wondering. Just asking in case someone here already gave a try…

Can you please show us a picture of your stator, so i maybe can tell you why it overheated? I would not try to rewind it. Try to get some stators with hubs from alien as spare parts. Than you can at least reuse the rotors which incorporates also some work to get them streamlined.

If someone can tell me how to attach a link to some where else in this forum I could point to where I wrote about it. Yes I rewound a 83100. I purchased it at 180KV and I rewound it to I think 116 KV.
I also have burned up a 80100, I have removed all the wire from that. I plan to rewind that one some day. Currently I have a new spare 80100 in a box. So I am in no rush to rewind the other one. None of my build attempts were direct water cooling.

No I have not tried anything other than the wire I had laying around. When I did mine I used a much thicker with less stands to rewire the motor. I had to pull the wire kind of hard to make the tight bends required to wrap it. I would stay with the same original thin wire if I had a choice.I figure the motor manufactures know best.

Just navigate there, copy the content of adress bar and paste it into your article.

You’ve probably already looked at this
However I occasionally have engine stutter and intermittent drop outs from programming ESC low voltage cut off too low or too high,
I think what’s happening to me is the huge full throttle load spikes voltage down or up and auto cut out kicks in!
Lower the low Voltage safety cut out worked

Trying to add a link but I screwed it up.

This is what it looks like when you remove all the wire from a 80100.


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I’m having similar issues with my 80100. I paired with a 7.5in diameter/8in pitch alu prop and a 14S14P li-ion battery pack, flier 400a boat esc and smart 150a BMS. Basically, the main problem is that the motor starts studdering at around 12 km/h before shutting off if more throttle is given. At first, I thought my propeller had too much pitch but then I mounted it backwards to reduce its efficiency and the same problem occurred. Now I’m thinking it might just be a setting on my ESC. Any suggestions? Can it be something else? It spins really well out of the water and it can fly by itself on the water.

What is your timing at?

I think it is at 20 degrees but I will confirm when I get home!

Maybe try increasing it some more. I think mine was at 24 degrees.

I’ll definitely try that! The timing alone could explain this sort of behavior?

Yep it definitely could be just timing. Hard to tell without trying though. I’m surprised it would lose sync at 20 degrees timing as that is close to what it should be, so it could also be something else, but definitely try increase the timing first.

Prop is too much… You need max. 6x6 Zoll.
Greetings Frank

150mm Diameter, 180mm Pitch