Unfortunately no such plan. Sorry
Just curious, why is there so much space between cells (65mm long) and the interior part of the case (87mm) ?
for 3 reasons:
- the initial pack we got from suppliers was 80mm thick (due to the spacers)
- bms is on top of the pack
- our planned boards have enough height to deal with this so it’s not a constraints. that also allow us to have more volume boards with smaller footprint.
Hi,
I have a flying rodeo board and your battery pack is too high for me and think maybe same for people with lift boards maybe?
If the height was lower i be keen on a purchase
unfortunately at this moment there is no intent to have it thinner as the height is based on our battery layup where the BMS fits above the cells against the aluminum panel for better heat dissipation.
should we have large order we could make custom thinner version
Hey @morgansteven1970, I have a Lift board and I agree. I found some awesome cases that fit within the size I required. DM me and I’ll give you links!
I’d be interested to see which ones you have found. I found the easiest and cheapest case to get a 14S10P battery in is the MAX004. If you pop the lid off and do a custom lid from polycarbonate you can get it down to 75mm in height.
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So I was using two of those cases (although mine was called the Elephant case EL016) and it wouldn’t let the lid seal on the Lift board. Even when I tried to trim down the high points and feet, it was still a tad too big.
Now I use two Polycase DC-96F cases. I basically just entombed my battery packs inside (and sealed since they weren’t IP6x certified) and have a positive and negative lead coming out cable glands. But it fits PERFECT inside the Lift board. Only thing I wish was I only had one case to contend with rather than two. So I end up having to have two small junction boxes to combine the two positive wires and the two negative wires.
FINAL RESULT:
@Flightjunkie this is what I ended up with. Works well.
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Yeah, I pulled the lid off and then made a new low-profile lid that I just put on with some zip ties. Makes the height 75mm
Do you have any pictures of that? Sounds interesting! I wish there was just ONE case supplier than made a case large enough to fit a couple hundred cells and below the height of 3.3" with a waterproof seal!
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Nice clean design! Great job!
Is your Lift board compartment 100% waterproof? Mine is now with the 3M VHB tape on the hatch side. Haven’t had a drop of water in the last several rides, playing in the surf and everything.
No! It looked like this after 30 minutes of riding (but I didn’t fall so I think it was just in there from initially being under water):
Do tell how to use the 3M VHB tape! If you have pictures send them over and I’ll definitely add!
I can’t believe Lift sells a board with a compartment that isn’t watertight. Every Lift board leaks.
I ride with a friend who has a Fliteboard. He never gets a drop of water in his board.
This tape doesn’t stick if there is any contamination. Salt. Oil from your fingers. Silicone grease. So, clean everything with rubbing alcohol several times, and rubbing alcohol your fingers before working with this stuff. Do two layers of 3M VHB tape on the lid in the position so it contacts the rubber seal when closed. Pull the backing off the tape at the corners so you can make a smooth curve. After doing the first layer, do a second layer over the first so it is two thickness. Stagger the seam. I like to cut the seam at a 45° angle. Take care to get the seam together with no gap. This tape is very soft. It will compress down to almost no thickness as needed to make a perfect seal.
You might have to adjust the Latches a bit looser if it’s too hard to latch at first. Don’t force it. The latch should be as tight as possible where you can still open it with your fingers.
Most importantly!!! Don’t forget to silicone grease the top of the final layer of he 3M tape before closing the hatch or you will never be able to get it open!
I have done 3 boards this way. Works excellent. Not a drop of water. Also, put silicone grease on the shaft of the latches so they don’t leak around the shaft over time.
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what do you think about this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P33CLQ4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I only tested in water tank and no leaks but need to test in real action soon
Hi.
That weather stripping is much cheaper. Let us know. But, I haven’t had much luck with foam weatherstripping.
The reason why I use VHB 3M tape is because the glue is the strongest on the market. There is no way it’s gonna fall off.
Second to that, and of even more importance is that the top surface of VHB tape, once treated with silicone grease remains extremely tacky… forever. To the point it often takes me both hands to open the hatch, upon which I hear a hissing sound as the compartment seal is broken. Now that is how you know you have a good seal!
that foam has very strong PSA glue at one side and I have an oring on the lid that sits and puts pressure on the foam. Will do more testing this weekend and share the results
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Please let us know!
Mine has been completely dry every time I open it, the compression latches are super tight though. I can’t even open them with my bare hands, had to loop a Velcro cable tie around each one just to be able to pull them up from the closed position.
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Hello guys! I test this very good glue tape
https://www.amazon.fr/gp/aw/d/B07TTNT7WK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Use silicone Grease in spray sometimes because it’s very sticky and you Can wash it sometimes and restart like a New 