Your box looked familiar to me, it is the RL box 
Good idea to use your foot as a sensor and the water to warm you up (in spain) !
I haven’t gone VESC and lack any form of tools to monitor AMPs.
Ive trusted what others have shown. I believe i have plenty of overhead with Samsung Q30 cells, good 8AWG cables and decent anti spark connectors.
I played with the idea of safety cut out switches, but was worried about cutting power under load.
I have a marine Breaker between BATT and ESC.
Ive tested cutting power to the RX with a simple reed switch and magnet. This works and appears to stop the motor within a second or so.
Im happy with that.
Yup. RL did me a deal. The box is very well made, Designed for the seal 300A and has just enough room for the 3 battery packs of 4S 12P
I had to drill out the gong mast plate a touch as its slightly off by a few mil.
The red sea deck was going to be changed, but its grown on me.
ESC - MOTOR connections: (please ignore the other wires shown. this was just a test battery pack and certainly not able to handle the current of any load.
Pneumatic connectors with 8mm bullet connectors soldered on.
Silicon tube and epoxy. Perfect fit. great tip i found on this forum. Cheap and effective.
Used a gas torch/Iron to solder. needs a lot of heat to get the solder to flow.
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@kiterr RL was kind enough to include this little fitting. Had to hunt for a nut for it, its 1/8 thread, has a rubber o-ring and the bit you cant see im holding is a barbed push fit connector for the 8mm water hose.
I have added small zip ties to every water connection just in case.
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Here is some close ups of the tub from Rene (RL) @kiterr
5mm Alu bottom plate.
This fits the Seal 300A Opto perfectly.
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What is the weight of the alu box?
100mm internal 108mm external
I haven’t weighed the box yet. It’s quite substantial.
Very interesting! I’m currently building a very similar set up. The hatch and the battery pack are going to be a bit bigger.
Does the decking material stay well on the board when deflated?
Did you order the board directly from XtremeGene or was it a box+board combo from RL (the 585€ combo) ?
I made the logo by cutting the foam deck pad myself.
I got the board earlier but the combo was a steal at that price.
The deck pad is well stuck even when deflated. Time will tell how it hold up. But it’s relatively cheap and easy to apply.
Having them from two different sources, you were lucky the RL box did fit into the board slot. What is the board brand btw ? A Mala one ?
I have no idea the make of the board, but it appears most of these inflatable boards are from the same source. Mines the shorter of the 2 available with MSI construction, slightly shorter distance mast to the rear. They all have the same size cut out from what i had seen.
Hi all.
The past few days i have made some more progress.
I was always concerned about water ingress via the cutout slot where the cables enter the underside of the tub from the mast.
I want to be able to detach the mast from the box for ease of transportation. Sealing up with silicon every time I assembled would mean waiting for it to cure. So i tried another approach.
Using some Clay (clay bar for car cleaning) I made a quick mold of the slot.
I cast this in some household wall filler / plaster in a small plastic tub.
Once this dried out, I removed the clay, flipped it upside down, and used a strong black silicon to fill the void. Being careful to avoid too many air bubbles.
This took a day or 2 to cure, and after a quick clean up of the edges was ready to drill out for the motor and water cable.
Im now glad i have the water exit on the top of the board and not back down the mast.
I missed taking a photo of this stage as its a 4 handed job to rest the tub on top while bolting together.
It was a snug fit into the slot, and the 2mm or so of the flat seal sits nice on the tub and mast.
Nipped her up nice and tight and put the lid on.
Into the pool and I was surprised even without the board, this is really buoyant. I suspect it will still be when electronics and battery installed ( this bodes well in case of a puncture)
I also removed the 12v water pump. The tube has very little resistance and I will trust the experts here when they say water will flow from the movement of the e-foil. (inlet is center of the mast mount nose cone) KISS
Removing the pump reduced the clutter and wires to such a degree, i thought ill d tidy the many cables and find a neat way to fit ESC - receiver - UBEC in the smallest possible space.
I had already coated the receiver in conformal coating and applied this to the ubec. The seal 300A OPTO is rated to be submerged. I don’t plan for this, but with the tub still in the pool i thought i could add some silicon sealant to cable entry points and other sensitive areas. Just in case water does find its way in. Its pretty fine stuff that water, if there is a way in, it will find it.
So now my connectors are water tight, the receivers well protected, and the ubecs pretty safe.
Back to check on the tub/mast that has been submerged in my pool for 1hr at about 2ft below the surface. I put a few paper towels inside on the bottom so even the smallest drop would be visible.
I`m happy to report not a single drop of water made it inside. And if it ever did, I think as long as its a small amount, no major harm will be done.
Still waiting for the battery welder in the mail. As soon as that arrives, ill make up my 3 separate packs.
In the mean time, im really quite tempted to use this 10s6c pack and throttle her up in the pool.
What do you think? is that safe?
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Go for it 
Tempting. Very tempting.
It’s works. However pools only 8m so I didn’t ride on it. Anything more than a touch of throttle and it lifts out of the water.
Don’t have scales that can get wet, but pushing against my foot while I sat on the edge, there’s a lot of force. Quite how much? No idea. Enough? No idea.
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