I have no idea the make of the board, but it appears most of these inflatable boards are from the same source. Mines the shorter of the 2 available with MSI construction, slightly shorter distance mast to the rear. They all have the same size cut out from what i had seen.
Hi all.
The past few days i have made some more progress.
I was always concerned about water ingress via the cutout slot where the cables enter the underside of the tub from the mast.
I want to be able to detach the mast from the box for ease of transportation. Sealing up with silicon every time I assembled would mean waiting for it to cure. So i tried another approach.
Using some Clay (clay bar for car cleaning) I made a quick mold of the slot.
I cast this in some household wall filler / plaster in a small plastic tub.
Once this dried out, I removed the clay, flipped it upside down, and used a strong black silicon to fill the void. Being careful to avoid too many air bubbles.
This took a day or 2 to cure, and after a quick clean up of the edges was ready to drill out for the motor and water cable.
Im now glad i have the water exit on the top of the board and not back down the mast.
I missed taking a photo of this stage as its a 4 handed job to rest the tub on top while bolting together.
It was a snug fit into the slot, and the 2mm or so of the flat seal sits nice on the tub and mast.
Nipped her up nice and tight and put the lid on.
Into the pool and I was surprised even without the board, this is really buoyant. I suspect it will still be when electronics and battery installed ( this bodes well in case of a puncture)
I also removed the 12v water pump. The tube has very little resistance and I will trust the experts here when they say water will flow from the movement of the e-foil. (inlet is center of the mast mount nose cone) KISS
Removing the pump reduced the clutter and wires to such a degree, i thought ill d tidy the many cables and find a neat way to fit ESC - receiver - UBEC in the smallest possible space.
I had already coated the receiver in conformal coating and applied this to the ubec. The seal 300A OPTO is rated to be submerged. I don’t plan for this, but with the tub still in the pool i thought i could add some silicon sealant to cable entry points and other sensitive areas. Just in case water does find its way in. Its pretty fine stuff that water, if there is a way in, it will find it.
So now my connectors are water tight, the receivers well protected, and the ubecs pretty safe.
Back to check on the tub/mast that has been submerged in my pool for 1hr at about 2ft below the surface. I put a few paper towels inside on the bottom so even the smallest drop would be visible.
I`m happy to report not a single drop of water made it inside. And if it ever did, I think as long as its a small amount, no major harm will be done.
Still waiting for the battery welder in the mail. As soon as that arrives, ill make up my 3 separate packs.
In the mean time, im really quite tempted to use this 10s6c pack and throttle her up in the pool.
What do you think? is that safe?
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Go for it 
Tempting. Very tempting.
It’s works. However pools only 8m so I didn’t ride on it. Anything more than a touch of throttle and it lifts out of the water.
Don’t have scales that can get wet, but pushing against my foot while I sat on the edge, there’s a lot of force. Quite how much? No idea. Enough? No idea.
3 Likes
Congratulations! Looks really good. What is the total weight without 
?
21kg without battery but everything else.
battery will be about 7kg
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Here is how @Frage’s in 2018 measured 42kg of static thrust 117Amps 4200W in his pool with a bathroom scale. It would be interesting to see what a Flying Rodeo propeller changes to the equation.
Thanks for confirming this works. I saw that suggestion and am doing the exact same! I am going to try silicone sealant for the silicone tube to the silicone wire. I got XT150’s from Amazon and they are really hard to put together and take apart. Going to need to find a different connector.
Hi, perfect work in swimming pool :-))
I think it’s safe
regards Rene
Spotted a wooden stand used at the German boat show by lift.
Took a stab at my own.
Just need to sand/varnish and add some rubber. So nice to have it free standing. Will be a great addition to the dock on the lake.
Scale drawing for anyone that wants it. I used 10mm Plywoood.
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Swerved a few lockdown rules but finally on the lake.
Couldn’t be happier.
1hr 20mins run time on Battery.
Plenty of power
Nice and cool ESC
Water tight container
Remote holding out well so far.
Charging in about 2hrs.
Just need to be fitter, but you can’t have it all.
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Okay some feed back on my build after 10hrs riding time:
- Learning curve is steep, but within a few goes, getting stood up and comfortable comes natural.
- pointless to have a cutoff safety system. When i fall, I naturally let go of the trigger, and if the boards more than a few feet away it just stops.
- The weight of the board and battery is enough to keep it from flying out the water after a spill. Much less dangerous than foil surfing.
- PLA 3d prints are not great. in fact, they suck. My motor mount and duct both warped in the heat of the sun, and soaked up water making them soft. (poly carbonate PC max en route for a reprint) save your self the hours of wasted time, print once in Poly carbonate. you can thank me later.
- RX needs to be as high up the board as possible. I sink the lower 50% of the board while I am climbing up the back, and if I don’t get it right, I can loose signal cutting the boards power. Changing technique I can overcome this, but less than ideal. (I have extended the cables to the RX so i can move the to the front of my tub)
- Inflatable boards great, however I prefer with less than 15PSI in it. Better to have a softer board hitting the back of your head and somehow, feels more comfortable to ride. If you have an inflatable, let some air out.
- In many spills and falls, I have not once been close to the prop. and not once did it keep spinning after a spill. Maybe removing the duct is the next thing. whats your opinion?
- 12S12P has much more stamina than me! I was wishing for great long rides, but my body cant handle more than 40 mins without needing a rest.
- Maytech remote (conformal and corrosion x mod applied) in fresh water has been fine. Shake the excess water out after each ride, fully dry before charge and charge with the pad atop the remote, not the other way around.
- Forget the expensive BMS, Instead, use a decent hobby charger and balance leads, tied to 2 HP server type PSUs. I can charge safe, fast and cheaply.
- E foiling generates a lot of attention. Everyone wants to have a go. No one can believe the cost to build, let alone the cost of a commercial board.
- Its heavy. really bloody heavy. To move it about, I need to get fitter.
- Worth every cent and every minute of the time i put in to the build. I am very satisfied with the result.
So I wish to thank each and ever member for sharing their knowledge, skills, mistakes and successes. Without you, this wouldn’t have been possible.
Ill stay on the forum and be pleased to pass on my knowledge and experience.
Thank you all… keep foiling.
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I agree with all your points , for the prop I think I fall on every part on my board (even got the mast between my legs …) except on the prop but I did accidentally pull the trigger many time while climbing on the board and carrying the board so I kept the duct
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Great summery. I agree. I also get tired long before my battery gets tired.
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I thought it was just me that got tired before the battery.
My 2x 14s7p packs with two blade folding prop go forever.
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Same here, I’m still learning and also let the kids do some slow rounds when we went for the first test. Istalled 2 6S LiPos with 16000mAh and took 2 spare 6S 20000mAh LiPos. 40 minutes later, we stopped and the small Lipos weren’t entirely empty, we didn’t use the bigger ones. Of course, most of the time we were going slowly or or getting back on the board, might be different when running fast for a while.
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Hi.
Great build. Congratulations.
Take the prop guard off. You will be shocked at the performance increase. More maneuverable, and more power and top speed.
Always turn the remote off before moving the board! The only close calls with the prop I have had were when the throttle got bumped while carrying the board, or moving it around. So, always turn off the remote before handling untill ready to ride.
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