Those connectors are interesting, but I am a bit worried about the current, especially in my 80100 direct drive setup. But it is hard to find something rated much higher. I have no experience what it takes to make such things not only heat up a little but catch fire 
Hi! Yes for the current I haven’t find anything accepting higher current per pin. The solution could be to use one connector per cable and separate each cable in 3 to be divised in the 3 pins. If you want something smaller for that there is the smaller model that can handle something like 20A per pin I think so I would make 60A per cable, a little bit better.
If the best is to use one connector per cable, I would go for these from http://www.chogoriusa.com/large.pdf they are more expensive but I like their push lock system. They are 50A per pin as well. I haven’t chosen them for my 3 cable in one connector solution as their outside diameter is smaller than the one from weipu connectors.
or we have to start printing our own bullet based connectors… that can handle the water line at the same time…
filling them with grease could work well to make them waterproof, but it become messy when opened… using o-rings might not be best on 3d print… so a gasket seems to be the only real solution… or have the connector in a dry zone 
I’ve been liking the as150 for my efoil stuff. Works well, easy to solder and cover, has anti-spark, high current and easy to remove and connect. Basically all you need.
Nice Dirkdiggler!
What is the wire (8,10,12awg) coming off those connectors or do the sell just connectors? Is quality high and they don’t get hot at 150A?
There are 100A and 150A single connectors but they are $100 USD each but its real current USA grade heavy duty/certified.
Have you tried these at 10USD per pair plus the price of the 8wg cable ? Do you think the rating is over estimated ?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RVM93YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DY-GAb4BQE8VX
Yes I have used those, they are good, but they are solder connections only, and if the solder gets onto threads or bulge our the covers do not work/fit without some time and effort. I posted a long time ago on there the different types and reasons for connections, and because I am going for mass production we opted out of solder connections for two main reasons.
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Its way faster to bolt or crimp connections.
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Users will miss use products and are more likely to overheat things so desoldering is a concern as its been mentioned on this forum a ton of times. We want wires to be physically held tight and in place no matter how hot it may get.
There are lots of great connectors that will work for one off individual builds but everything we source and test is looking beyond that for easy manufacturing, durable, and safe.
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Will Smith with the Lift foil guys. Long video of him trying to ride. If he had the Killer Foilboard, he’d have been up riding the whole time. Having a bigger board and the cruise control remote makes things so much easier! Trying to stand up holding a sensitive remote is so difficult, especially with a small board and foil.
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You can solder any size wire you want. I think they are basically 8mm bullet connectors, but the housing is nice, you screw them on after soldering. They’re like $25 for five sets off eBay.
I use them for the phase wires too.
Seen that from some of the first videos, many, well mostly all seem to be too weak.
super or have you found this connector backflow?
Anyone have the thickness of a lift board or their battery power Volts and Ah? would be interesting to know what they are running.
There advertisement shows a battery that looks like 14S14P .
14S14P 30Q cells. Running a direct drive unit. Thickness of board must be between 10-12cm
I’ve scaled my board of their sport model. So the thickness of the board will entirely depend on how thin I can get the battery setup
Not exactly i have a board which is 240x70x10 and i am seaking at start , i will try to make my new board 180x80x13 , most waterproof case are 11,5cm so getting the board to 13-14 cm is nice for space and easier start in water i think
Keep in mind that if anything goes wrong you need to be able to paddle back to shore. That’s another vote for a larger board. There are a few stories of very long swims on this forum.
Totally. a small board with low liters is not easy to paddle back when is always half underwater drowning the electronics. I have had a couple long swims into the wind and waves, what a shoulder burner… LOL
Let’s just hope I dont get too ahead of myself and end up for a long swim.