Nice , not to heavy ?
Be carefull with the impact of the board on the water , and with crash
If you can increase radius on corner to avoid seal trouble it will help to have better lifetime of your waterproof box.
Yes. Thank you. Iāve been worrying about that too. The battery will be secured within the box. Gotta figure out a way to keep pressure off the lid. Even with screws Iād like to avoid that. The box will be secured in the board enclosure. Just havenāt figured out how yet. Straps or foamā¦Iāll come up with something.
Yea. I was trying to avoid having a seam at the corners. I wasnāt happy with the narrow width of the 3m tape at the corners either. Iāll see what I can do for the final assembly. Thx for the tips!
The box is around 8lbs. I used 1/4" for the top and bottom and 1/2" for the sides. I wanted the sides thick enough to add fasteners for the lid, and a wide sealing surface.
Honestlyā¦Itās a bit heavy. I hope to print a polycarbonate box on my 3D printer. But, needed something that works for now so I can get on the water and do some testing!
My 3D printing skills need work, and my printer is awaiting some modifications! 
Good luck in printing such a large flat part in polycarbonate! Maybe you can get a commercial box or build one from sheets, PC is such good for usable parts as it is in warping and make you cursing while 3d printing! 100/110C heated bed, closed chamber or the printer inside of a box, printbead like Buildtack or similar and avoid steep wall over square corners!
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Iāve had good luck so far printing PC at 300Ā°C hot end and 130Ā°C build plate.
But, I havenāt tried to print large things yet. Iām still learning and experimenting.
Iām also playing around with ABS, Nylon, and I think Iām gonna buy some ASA to try.
Iāll keep you guys posted on how things evolve.
PC sticks great to Elmerās Extreme strength glue stick on glass build plate.
I have just tested the Asa from formfutura on the Cr10s in closed box: this material is the top quality finish.
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ASA-X from Dutch filaments is my favorite filament. UV resistant and warping is not as bad as with other ABS based filaments.
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Thank you for the recommendation!
Excellent. Iāll look into that one.
ASA prints nice, good looking and long term outdoor capable! Not brittle but interlayer bonding aināt that strong, so depending from the part you print, could be ok
Thanks for the info.
How would you say the strength compares to other filaments like ABS, PLA, and nylon?
Is layer adhesion strength a common weakness, or could this have been due to your printers limitations?
These pics were posted in my other build thread. Re posted here to keep this thread updated.
Complete battery.
Itās a tight fit.
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Strength is like ABS, less brittle and more resistant to heat than PLA. Nylon is stronger but much harder to print.
Donāt get me wrong, Asa is as good as the best ABS without odor, UV weakness and also with less shrinkage problems. For parts subjected to compression and hit is fantastic, for something that must withstand bending forces or pull on the Z axis direction (wish to be understandable), e.g. a propeller, a surf finā¦ASA like ABS might not be the choice.
PC or even PLA if heat is not an issue outperform ASA for such application. PETG could be a good compromise even thought have more adesion problem with epoxy and other glues.
Nailing the right setting on your 3d printer is mandatory. For PC and big parts in ASA I had to enclose my Craftbot plus in a box, all metal hotend reaches 300 C but the semi-enclosure donāt ensure a warp free result all the times.
My efoil 1.0 and 1.1 were made in PC Max, no problem at all. Last year I moved to aluminium and the 2020 will also be all metal, but propellers are still in PC Max.
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hi, do i understand correctly ? does your battery box weight 10kg ? 
The waterproof enclosure alone is 8 lbs. 3.6 kg. Total battery weight is over 20lbs, so yea. About 10kg. I made my battery pretty much exactly to the Lift board battery specifications. Itās probably a couple pounds heavier then the lift battery though because of my case and plugs.
I wanted to have a long ride time (over 1 hour). That comes with weight. No way around it.
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thanks for fast answer)
i saw you not use bms, just rc-charger, its fast charge ? can you explain - how to make like you, build without bms, fast charge, and dont kill battery, plese ? 
Search my posts. Read up on understanding series and parallel battery connections, and read up on balance charging lithium batteries.
These batteries are very dangerous. You must learn all of these things before to start playing with them, before you try to build your own.
I have made several posts replying to other questions in the last month. This information should be a good start. But, please read enough to understand these things.
Any questions after learning this stuff, Iām happy to help.