Looks very under extruded. Nozzles are cheap I would change. Also try nozzle temp at max for that filament. Also possible the flow calibration is off but in my expeience thats becaue the nozzle has a partial clog.
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More bad luck, after the 5085 pod broke, I changed back to the 6384. Unfortunately I hit some driftwood with the propeller and lost one blade. At least I did not have to swimm back, I could motor back at very low speed with 2 out of 3 blades.
Print your hub with MJF PA 12 (prototi, jlcpcb..)
Not sure if this would have saved my blade. Hitting a piece of wood could even kill the original injection molded FD hub. Mine was in PC-ABS. Avoiding driftwood is probably the best way to save the prop.
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Hitting an object is never a good idea
I would still not use any of those hubs anymore.
Break shows the same issue as the other one above. There is almost no layer bonding and clear underextrusion.
If it separates like this, you will be far better off with a more simple filament that has proper layer bonding.
Hi @sat_be , I wonder if you might have a link to a Metr file with your 12S3P pack?
I recently received two of these RacePow “solid state” packs and I would like to try and compare some of your discharge data to my own. These RacePow packs are 6S 15AH, so the two in series are the same nominal size as a 12s3p of RS50s. I’m impressed with your reported 600wh usable from your pack. I doubt the RacePow batteries can match it but I want to see roughly how close they are to one of the best 21700 cells with a bit of real use data.
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