DIY 6384 Foil Assist - propeller

Hello,
I am just starting my foil assist build using the 6384 outrunner with a 12s3p battery.
I can find a lot of information here in this forum. But:

What kind of propellers are You using?

foil drive - three blade,
propellerking - two or three blade,
or is there a design of a 3D printed propeller that works just printed (without glass or carbon layer)

Many thanks
Stefan

Hi Stefan.
I’m a fan of Propellerking props.
On the 6384 I use the 2 blades on 10S3P.
From the next session on 12S3P.

The Fold three blades look interesting.
That’s the next thing I’ll be testing.

On the 63100 I use the Hyperdrive three blades on 12S7P.

I’m impressed by the quality of the props. I wont buy any others, or I only have printed ones as spares.

Hangloose Markus
@superlefax THX

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How much time and km you get using Propellerking blades with 6384 and 10s3p or 12s3p?

I haven’t ridden 12S3P yet. With 10S3P it was between 25-30 minutes. I can’t tell you the distance because I didn’t have a Garmin watch at the time.
With my 63100 and 12S7P I get 50-60 minutes for a distance of 18km.

decent 3 blade folding options here https://kparts-watersports.com/en/shop/E-FOIL-ACCESSORIES-POD-c159415759

the basic nylon one has plenty of punch for getting me planing 85kg 5ft board 6579 Waterproof Motor with Ceramic bearings - #6 by jbfoiluk

Flipsky now also has an aluminum folding prop. Only USD$40 Flipsky 4.8 Inches 2-blade Folding Propeller | Motor Boat Propellers | – FLIPSKY

@seagull_nz
@bigginsking
How does the Flipsky aluminum prop perform?

Seems to work great, I don’t notice any difference between this and the plastic prop.

I would do it again. Starting to get the hang of the GY1310, lots of turns, starting to do some pumping. Moving the prop up about 3 inches made it a lot better behaved but it ventilates a lot easier.

Two things I’ve been monkeying with:

  1. I got a M6D charger. It seems to be pretty decent although you have to connect a beefy power supply
  2. I’m trying to mitigate the “pop” when connecting the batteries.

For #2 I used a balance port connector to initially connect the battery through a resistor, allowing it to charge the caps on the ESC slowly, this works OK with around 1k of resistance, but I think 100 ohms would work better, I just don’t have a beefy 100 ohm resistor on hand. That might be all that’s needed or perhaps something more complex is warranted. The pop is annoying and gradually makes the connectors hard to disconnect.

Has anyone tried to use the balance port for this?

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I am glad these props are good, but I hoped they will provide more motor time…
Why didn’t you put anti spark connectors?

Anti spark connectors? Never heard of them, I’m using XT-90?

Here is the best price for anti spark xt90 I have found on Ali - link

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this kind of connectors are OK for lower voltages, but can get damaged on higher voltages (14S) and high capacitance systems. Better than nothing for sure!

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@lishine I tried the prop with BDUAV 120kv motor. It fits with existing threaded holes however it does leave a little gap which could be filled with a 3D printed cone shape. My 3D printed props broke straight away so put on the Flipsky prop. I was able to efoil on large board (85L) and large foil (axis 1150) pretty easy but I felt the prop needed a little higher RPM to get better power, which makes sense as my motor is 120kv and the Flipsky motor is 140kv. But also I’m a 12S battery so already getting high RPM .

If more amps are needed you can use the QS8 S (anti spark) connector.
We use them, and they work great!

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