DIY lid for the electronics

The Gong (65cm mast Medium wing) is much easier to ride. Lifts earlier, more stabile, easy to turn. I havent tested high speed yet.

1 Like

please let me know the top speed of the M wing, when you have tested it…

I have the L wing and as top speed is about 20kmh, I’m thinking about getting the M, to be a bit faster…

And its really stable. I never foiled before and was able to do so on the first try.

The M is about the same size as the takuma v100 , i found it stable and fun , top speed 32-35km/h but past 30 the Amps get high ( on 40mm motor…)
I wanted to go down bit , try a kite wing but it is a big stretch from 1200 to 800, or may be the RL board efoil wing …

1 Like

The wall thickness is 15mm. screws are M6.
The weight shouldnt be more than 4kg based on my calculations.

Hi talked to kuntze who sell the seal and they can ship world wide. Just email them and they will help you out.

Made a 15 minute run today, couldn’t go longer because my hands were freezing.

Took some pictures with the flir after the run and everything is holding up fine. Ubec hade the highest temp, 22 degrees C. Seaking 19 degrees C.

Really impressed by the Kia Soul cells. Only 13 degrees after 15 minutes of riding.

3 Likes

For reference:

2 Likes

Do you water cool the Esc?

1 Like

Yes!

In the heat-cam pic you see the heat from the pump in the upper left corner.

1 Like

A lid is good to keep your electronics safe. But it is also a pain since you have to turn on the board before you close the lid.

I invested in a small 433mhz remote which I connected to my anti spark circuit. I can now connect everything and close the lid and not activate the board before it’s in the water.

The 433mhz receiver runs on 3-24v, I used a very old power bank that makes 5V out of 1,5V.

The receiver has a relay that is normally open. I bought it on AliExpress.

Makes life easier.

3 Likes

This is the backup:

2 Likes

Pretty cool. That remote is waterproof too? Have a link?

I am thinking of making a killswitch on the batteries.
So that when i connect the switch it ll get insta power. But need to test this idea first.

Hi!

An update on the lid seal. I removed the crown seal, I did not sit well in the corners, and replaced it with a seal made from a 2mm rubber foam sheet.

Works well and won’t lose its shape over time.

You can get the rubber foam from www.kuntze.se

7 Likes

My buddy did make “music box” (or whats the name) electronics, amplifier, separate battery and all that bullcrap in a big old portable beach refridgerator. For sealing he used that rubber that goes around the car door, trunk. Storm did kinda break his boat, was hitting the beach for maybe half an hour/hour filled with water. Electronics were dry inside, speakers ofc broken from the outside. He is a mechanic so he had that rubber for free probably, not sure whats the pricing on it. Just an idea if some1 has any material bellow the table and willing to try.

NICE seal! Amazing placement of electronics too :slight_smile: Still tryna’ figure out how that water cooling system works :wink:

How does your lid with the soft core take the pressure of the fixing screws? I plan to build a cfk board with either a 5mm foam or honey comb core core and 2x 600g cfk. I’m thinking about putting some 5mm carbon board pieces instead of the core where I plan to fix the board. Like this the screws can be tightened without compressing the core.

I made “lid anchors” which are glued into the board using epoxy. The anchor has a pocket for a nut. Works like a charm.

4 Likes

I dont remeber if i shared the stl from the anchors but here it is
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AiqyEh4Sf4KAhoB7SHuTGV91-zKOsg

Hi Riwi,
the 433 remote looks so easy. Please make a link list and a wiring Diagramm. I realy want to copy it. There is no spark and no other problem? Great, that will solve my problem