Flightjunkie's first e-foil build

Hello. Well done. Are your hatch lock waterproof? If yes where did you get them?

I used xps foam and 2 layers of carbon fiber on each side.

I finally tested it yesterday and the hatch was not waterproof. I will be making changes and changing the seals around the lid to attempt to make it water tight. :crossed_fingers:

Prop Mounting to the Flipsky Motor. I drilled out the center hud to allow the motor shaft to fit. Then milled the front of the hub, only enough to allow a thin nut. This was important to allow the blades to fold properly. Go slow milling out the front. It will cut into where the prop screw go through.

Tell me if it work. I never find some waterproof and I finally draw it and built my own waterproof hatch lock…

The latches that Lift uses are the gold standard. But they are $50usd each. Made by Gemlux. The 2" hole size is what Lift uses.

Most latches are not 100% waterproof out of the box. But, on most of them you can modify them to keep water from coming down the shaft by adding an o-ring, grease, silicone grease, or some combination of these steps.

Do not buy the cheaper latches from gemlux. They do not compress with as much closing force.

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There is also the SURFFIC / CIMI Sports way where the latch (or bolt) is outside the gasket loop so you don’t mind a non waterproof latch:

Surffic Hatch Int comments

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Like I said, I done my own even if the screw hatch lid bold is a good idea!

Wow. Those latches look very professional! I’m impressed you made those. Did you design them in fusion 360 and 3D print them? And use a stainless steel bolt?

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I totallly agree with @Flightjunkie those latches look professional!

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Hi. Thank you. No, I work on solidworks only. But it’s quite simple drawing surch hatch. Just putting a o’ring inside!

Two of these recessed in the lid should work outside the gasket loop with a small sliding plate offering two positions:

  • fork under the screw, lid locking position
  • fork off the screw, lever able to pass trough the lid to open the hatch lid.

Lever screw M 40

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Screenshot 2020-04-27 at 22.51.48 Screenshot 2020-04-27 at 22.51.36

These bonnet catch buttons work well, but again outside of the gasket loop.
6 USD for a pair on ALI express.

The profile is very thin, so they sit almost flush. The catch is really quite strong.

They are very easy to incorporate in any lid design.

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Good idea but are there waterproof?

not water proof. but if your design has them outside of the gasket…

Would you have a link to these?

The threaded length can vary from 10 to 50mm. Mountain bikes wheel shafts are longer but not usually SS
https://www.kippusa.com/us/en/Products/ … 4&scaam=4

Here the prices are insane
https://www.amazon.com/Kipp-04232-21200 … 896&sr=8-5

Yep, bit steep :money_mouth_face:

I tried a few bike seat post cam levers, but found the cam action a bit shallow.

I’m going to try the Smooth On 30 silicone, and see if I can make it water tight using that. It’s all trial and error since we are DIYers… :upside_down_face:

All my seals are smooth on mold star 30. My current built hatch seals so well that I could not close it without some kind of vent. Positive air pressure!
It vents through the thumb screw point when not tightened now.

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