They will know because it is saturated in CorrosionX don’t you think? If it’s opened for warranty inspection…
But if the after treatment with CorrosionX is (or will be) approved by the manufacturer is a win for the community ofcourse
I did test 100kv vs 120kv. It takes much more amps at start 
Wing was Pro M. Prop FR 6 inch.
Mast was 80cm for 120kv and 65cm for 100kv.
For 100k I could start with a max of 130amps, with 120kv 140 is barely sufficient with some pumping. This was just first ride I had heaps of issues with vesc shutdown due to overcurrent failure
Woops correction. For 100kv I had 7inch print not FR!!
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Are you suggesting to buy this motor or not?
I assume your finger was super steady and your throttle control was identical on both rides? Otherwise you simply can’t draw a comparison.
I have had 105kg people use my board with the 120Kv motor and never use more than 90A. A huge amount current control is how you take off, how fast you go to full throttle etc. To really compare 2 motors you need to make sure you use identical throttle and acceleration curves in a controlled environment. At some stage I’ll get to this in the testing…
Once I have tested it I’ll say whether I think its the best option or not…
Jeez it was the first ride…and I had big issues with overcurrent failure which not happened at other motor. This is fact. I could go full duty on 100kv with FR no issue. it is expected for this motor to have higher current at given torque, maybe @Giga will enlighten you one day.
Trigger so fast…
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The only person triggered is you… As I said, if you want to compare 2 motors you need to have like for like throttle control in a identical controlled environment.
I’ve never ever had an overcurrent issue on the 120KV motor even opening it up to full throttle immediately. So you had a different experience, that’s fine, but a lot comes down to your positioning on the board, how it gets on the plane, when you try stand etc. Loads of variables come into play. But this is not about that, so lets not derail the thread…
Jezza,
when will we get your testreport? Against what are you going to compare it?
I’ll update the original post as I test…
I want to try get to conclusions on the following:
- Whether its worth having both 100KV and 120Kv motors on the market (where do the advantages lie for each)
- Which shaft is better and easier for kits and DIY (can the spline style help in certain aspects)
- Which props run best and can be offered at good value for money (the shaft plays a role here too)
- What mods are needed to get the motor to an optimal state…
- Any other tests I can think of that contribute to drawing conclusions above
I’m hoping to get the motor in the pool today or tomorrow and give it a first run to see how the initial prop mods handle and if the motor can handle an 8" pitch prop.
First up I’ll look at what max RPM the motor can get to. This will give a good indication of what speed I should be able to reach as I know the average prop slip with my other props. My biggest worry is that the props with the rubber spline system are much harder to balance as the rubber does not always sit perfectly centred. If the props not great I’ll remove the spline and then add it to another prop…
When I eventually compare the motors with the same FR prop, I will need to modify the shaft or prop and haven’t decided which will be easier just yet…
What mods are needed to get the motor to an optimal state…
If you want to clarify this, you absolutely need to run it out of the box without any modification. This would be very imortand for most users here, as many are looking for a motor that runs out of the box. If you open it and modify it, all other testing might not be as useful as without mods.
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Static test is a good idea. In the meantime I will continue testing out of the field but won’t spam your threads with metr logs and rather use my build (make sense since the second propulsion unit is made for the 2nd board).
Agree with Toto, at least one log in original state would have been nice. The testing with corrx can be still performed afterwards.
As toto said, test the motor without any modifications. Anything else is useless.
Test without changes …
A test should always start in the series state, everything else is implausible.
And if it had then had the same KV
Excited to see what you come up with. Here’s my prediction of your results:
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Given the same propeller, the 120kv motor will produce both more low end torque and a higher top speed, but will draw more amps in every scenario. If you have a battery that can supply the juice and an ESC that can push both to the needs of the 120kv motor.
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If you limit the battery current to something disappointing, then the 100kv motor is going to have more torque up until a certain rpm when the 120kv motor will be able to keep spinning faster (assuming it is not propped poorly and not doing a static test.)
I kind of wish there was a 160kv or 180kv option for the 65161 for this test. It would let us get closer to the power of the FR/Lift motor. No one has melted a coil in one of these motors yet, have they?
I feel I need to mod the shaft of the 100kv so that it can take the FR prop and a spline prop. That way I can test a full range of props on it. The FR prop will come out tops bet, but it’s still fun to try see if something else comes close.
The only motor I know has fried has been the guys that built a foil boat. Not sure how much current they pushed through it, but I know it was running at 10s which is not enough for this motor.
It is never the voltage that destroys a motor, it is the current.
Whether 6, 10 or 14s does not matter.
greetings Frank
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Hey Jezza, I have been testing this prop on the grunty geared setup, I spun the rubber hub at 40% throttle during first pool test…
Spun it loose? …
almost loose, the only thing that prevented it flying off the shat was the stainless washer on the nut