It seems everbody is going for the 75200 ESC, but what about the 84100HP from Makerbase? With a 16-20s battery, it should not have any problems handling the 65161 motor, right?
Please tell me if I’m missing something here or what would be downsides to using it. For my plan the ESC is interesting due to its small size.
Hi, I’m not sure that those completely different topics will fit in one thread without losing the overview. Once I have a full understanding of everything (well kinda at least) I would definitely like to create a build thread that maybe can also help others.
I was not aware that I cannot open multiple threads for different topics. I also did not ignore the comment from Foilguy, but responded to it in a nice way and explained why I opened this thread.
I’m very new to this whole topic and try to learn and read, but for the ESC there is basically no information here
Flipsky had the 75100 and a 75200 which was already a copy
Then Makerbase copied too, and they too have a 75100 and 75200 now
From what I have heard both have the expected quality for the price
I think the price difference between the 75100 and 200 is not big enough, considering the 75200 may last longer (less stressed) and leave more headroom if you want to go faster in the future, demanding more than 100A…
If you have the space and the budget, I would always go for the 200A version, especially for a fist build.
Flipsky or Makerbase, pick your poison, you can have good or bad luck with both of them.
For both, make sure to take apart the ESC upon arrival and verify the thermal compound is spread evenly between PCB and ALU case
Thanks thats very helpful. Any feedback about the 84100 and 84200. Do they offer any big advantages over the 7 series? Seems like they are not copies of Flipsky
I’ve tried both the 75200 and 75100 watercooled ESCs. The 75100’s my top pick since it’s way smaller and lighter. For my 16S battery, I max it out at 40A, but I usually roll with 20A.
There’s nothing wrong with opening multiple topics provided they stick to the topic and make sense. In fact I think there should be some topics specifically relating to the Makerbase MKS ESCs. Currently they are the cheapest but there have been some quality issues in the soldering that I have seen. I haven’t tried one, but would definitely consider it if someone else had good experience with them. Ludwig has a good point, open the ESC up and check for solder bridges, loose solder balls and that the heatsinks are properly connected.
As for 100A vs 200A, it really comes down to weight, foil sizes and how you like to ride. There are times I need a 200A ESC and then other times I only use a 100A ESC.
I find the 65161 a little more current hungry than an outrunner and as a result run it with a 200A ESC. In saying that, I still have the max battery amps set to 150A and the phases set to 200A and have never needed more.
As far as I know, his good experience is bench testing.
I wanted to use two such controllers in a tow boogie, connected them via CAN, both motors worked incorrectly and as a result, the SMD Inductor burned out on one of the VESCs.
First of all I wish you a speedy recovery! Thanks for all your feedbacks. Since I’m planning to use a 20s battery, I should get away with either the 75100 or 84100… What are their differences? only Bluetooth connectivity? Is that worth it?
I will definitely check the soldering etc as suggested.
Interesting. Did pulsation from one motor switching cause enough disturbance to take out the control or was the CAN somehow a part of it… i guess we will never know. Do these two motors run ok with other esc:s now?
This controller is 100A I also have the Flipsky 75200 and it often goes up to 150A when starting from a standstill so a 100A controller maybe ok but a little bit short on power. The 7200 is all integrated with the Flipsky remote and Bluetooth module just plug and play you don’t have to make custom connections and figure things out. For the little money you save it’s not worth the hassle IMO.