Very likely yes, but you need to clean any grease from electronics (isopropyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol) and be sure to avoid bubbles while covering all with silicone.
Beware that completely removing it once cured could be impossible or extremely difficult and time consuming.
No. Don’t skimp out.
Silicone modified conformal coating is what you need to use.
Drone pilots, RC guys, and so many in the DIY community have been using this stuff to waterproof electronics for years.
I wouldn’t use something that isn’t tried and proven. But, that’s just me…
Do two coats of this stuff, then once it dries coat with a layer of corrosionX.
Just my 2¢. Let us know what you do, and please follow up with your long term results.
hmm, I’ll wait until the remote control arrives here. Then I open it and take a look.
If Sikaflex also works, I seal everything with Sika. I live on an island, Sika works here every day …
I take pictures for you 
I got the V2 a few weaks earlier too but didn’t opened it. I am planning to use it on a lake first. I might recoat if I get water in it after tests.
Just an update: Maytech did their usual offer of selling a replacement at a reduced cost. Which I was okay with in this case since I actually wanted a backup in case of future failure anyways. This one arrived fully potted though…so…not sure how I feel about it. Hopefully this one holds up better. Though I’m still hesitant about water eventually getting into the top of that power switch. That’s all I have to say on the remote for now though. Thanks all.
Just fill the switch with corrosionX.
Then do the corrosionX treatment once a month or so. It should be fine.
Sika (depending which of the dozens they produce) is fine. I use 291i a lot for marine applications where bonding is also important, but I had problems with polycarbonate based plastics and “acrylic glass” (the first stress cracks, the latter softens on the surface).
For submerged electronics we use epoxy potting, but probably even silicone could do in your case (one hour in your hand, partially wet). Beware that silicone don’t really stick to any materials, so coating something already coated might be a problem
Bu
Great idea @flightjunkie I might try the CRC marine corrosion inhibitor spray I have here. Seems very similar to Corrosion X. Anyone used this on things like switches? My only concern is gumming up a switch with something untested and might look for corrosion x around here instead.
CRC will probably be fine. You can always clean it off with rubbing alcohol if it gets too thick and sticky.
So I opened up my V2 remote today and found out they did the connectors, but did not seal up the screen at all. The quality control at Maytech is absolutely non-existent. This is the last product I purchase from them!
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No conformal coating at all? Yikes. Both of mine, the potted and non-potted seem to have conformal coating at least. Water still gets around the screen which they say is normal. We’ll see about long term effects though.
Use silicone dielectric grease type on the LCD screen. And between the screen and the screen cover. It is invisible and keeps it from getting that water in the screen look. This is what I did.
I also put two more coats of silicone modified conformal coating on the back, sides, and everywhere I could get it on the screen module.