Sure, good point however I consider a reliable signal the priority. If it doesn’t work underwater and suffers from interference it doesn’t really matter what the battery voltage is! The extras are nice to have but second only to reliability of signal.
1 Like
Have had good results on a cheap Quadcopter by using a TP-LINK 5 dB antenna(WiFi), range improved.So if possible to have such as an external antenna on the board would probably improve the problem.
1 Like
Radio Telemetry at 433 Mhz bi-directional is perfectly feasible and has been used for many years by the long range remote control FPV community.
433Mhz and 800 and 900 Mhz banda has regulatory limitations in different regions of the world. 2.4Mhz is almost meet regulation all over the world. proper frequency hoping and better phy is the way to go
what would be WAY MORE useful is a voltage readout as numbers not bars as you cant tell the packs capacity from bars as they are not programmable and everyone has there own voltage sag issues.
a voltage readout would be more helpful . …
1 Like
Voltage + capacity since you’re already putting in the number of series you have. And maybe a way to tweak the cell voltage so you could really dial it in.
I don’t own a MT remote. However my understanding of the user guide is that the remote takes this into account the whole battery nominal voltage through the cell nominal voltage x number of cells in series.
Let’s say you have configured your remote the following way for a 12s10p Li-IOn Battery. So your nominal voltage = 12s x 3.7 = 44.4V
Your max voltage = 12s x 4.2 = 50.4V
The forbidden min voltage : supposedly 12s x 2.7 = 32.4V as not provided by Maytech
Then has it been tested properly I don’t know as many users here were sceptical or not fully satisfied last April 2019.
In theory, using the 2 above data, the remote would display:
5 bars for Voltage between 44.4 and 50V
4 bars represent the 12V voltage range between 44.4 and 32.4, that is 1 bar for 3 volts.
So, I for one prefer managing bars instead of volts as two bar left would mean “Time to go home” with a reduced speed as the remaining battery Wh is way less than 2/5 of battery at full charge.
Questions:
1-how can we determine the battery energy that is left with respect to its voltage ?
2- Which lower voltage is judged dangerous for a Li-Ion cell ? For a LiPoly cell ?
3- @Eileen : what is the cell voltage used for zero bar ?
1 Like
without a shunt measuring amps i cant see how capacity will be of any use / measured ?
voltage / cell voltage is easy to do with what they have in place now / bandwidth but adding in a wireless shunt to measure current vs voltage would be prefect to monitor how many mah have been used.
Im using high voltage HV Tattu packs and at low amps these things hold there voltage so well that they are still operating at 3.9 volts per cell well into half the battery consumed.
fully depleted they are still at 3.4 v per cell.
So the bar method in my case using HV cells is useless as my voltage drop is nothing like 18650 cells. It stays at 5/5 for ages and i never even get to 2 bars as my cut off voltage is 3.5v.
i have a 2000 watt battery discharge machine that i can graph my discharge curve @ a nominal draw for example at 1200 watts to foil ( in my case ) if i have a voltage readout i would know roughly where im at in the discharge curve as i would be able to remember what cell voltage = what discharge depth im at - + 10%
without the ability to tune the bars to your individual packs setup / voltage they are not usable for everyone. OR
at a minimum make it a selection / menu choice voltage or bars.
Eileen : i hope you are taking notes and plan to make improvements to your product because it has even more potential with simple adjustments and though.
2 Likes
A think a hall effect sensor would be fine
Use very thin gauge co-axial cable. There are good tutorials on YouTube on how to make a quarter wave whip antenna. Make sure to always connect a ground to the shielding. Cheers.
So far I am happy with the Maytech remote. I have made 5 runs with it. I was a little disappointed that I bought before the cruse control option was rolled out. I have no problem keeping the trigger where I want it, so I don’t think I need the cruse control.
Cruise control sounds good but when I’m up on the foil I have to do constant micro adjustments on the throttle to get it to stay consistent so I doubt I’ll ever use it (even though I have it).
Question: When just testing the remote. sometimes when I pull the trigger all the way the display reads 99%. or 100%. Other times it seems to only go to about 93%. Is there some adjustment or calibration I should be doing. Or is it just my control?
You need to calibrate, long press power+brake you will access to settings
Thanks. I forgot you can do that.
Hi. his there any manual for this remote?
I don’t know sorry ,
I found out by trying all the buttons
Thank you very much Alan