Naples, Florida Build(s) + DIY eFoil board(s) for the community

Naples, Florida Build(s) + DIY eFoil board(s) for the community

Some pictures of the 65" board:







Here’s a google drive full of pics:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zgU5Z4v0-nyrwYf1ZhbDtNuylHe00qfX

For electronics, I plan to use off-the-shelf hardware (Flipsky & Maytech), but I am very interested in any community driven electronics for motors, remotes, VESC, etc.

I’ve decided to offer the various sizes with different options (board only), based on the budget, ranging from $1,000 to $2,000. I am willing to trade for electronics, batteries, and foils.
Options -

  • Carbon fiber or fiberglass (the process of building is roughly the same for me - the cost of materials is obviously a big factor)
  • Sizes: please review table below
  • Primed only (marine grade primer, it comes out of the mold primed - Duratec)
  • Primed + top coat - single color (marine grade top coat)
  • Primed + top coat - custom decals, etc (will be farming out to a local painter for anything super custom… Clear coating a decal / logo in is not a problem. Some fancy airbrush is out of the scope of my shop)Naples, Florida Build(s) + DIY eFoil board(s) for the community
  • Clear coat (West System 207 special clear hardener top coat)
  • Bolts for attaching the lid (pictured above - M8 bolts)
  • 4 latches for attaching the lid (pictured above)
  • 2 latches with hinges attaching the lid (not pictured, but ready for production versions)
  • Traction pad (pictured is Seadeck, which is expensive, but very nice quality)

Flexibility: Since the board was built with hollow construction and stringers, it’s quite easy to add a spot for power switch on the outside, watercooling underneath, etc. I designed it for the DIYer to be able to work on it.

Watertightness: Bolts make the tightest seal and virtually eliminates water infiltration. Obviously bolts come with the consequence of having to undue 8 bolts every time you want to get into the enclosure.

Latches have a good seal, but expect some water to get into the enclosure.

Either approach, I suggest an additional waterproof box for batteries. I have a custom waterproof box in the works which I will show in the future.

The mast enclosure is 100% waterproof, as long as the connector between the mast enclosure and main enclosure is waterproofed. Also the mast must be waterproofed, so water does not come up into the mast enclosure. There’s 8”x4”x4” of space in this mast enclosure, so a lot of options. This can be left undrilled or I can install a 3 or 4 gland connector, barbs, or whatever else to the main enclosure.

The 65” fiberglass version weighs 25 lbs (11 kg) and the carbon version should be <15 lbs (7kg). I’ll flush out the weights as I have them.

I will provide a money back guarantee. Knowing that these are new with limited testing, I’ll be very responsive to get the boards fixed / replaced and attempt to provide support for them remotely.

Right now I have a 2-3 week lead time and several 65” & 56” on order.

After many months of teaching myself composites, I finally have a board that makes sense to release to the DIY community. My small shop, located in Naples, Florida, is dedicated to composite manufacturing, with an initial focus on eFoils. I hope to expand https://efoil.builders/t/naples-florida-build-s-diy-efoil-board-s-for-the-community/7728/4to other water toys and eventually boats in the future. Having been a skateboarder, snowboarder, and wakeboarder / wakesurfer most of my life, I instantly fell in love with the concept of eFoiling. Thanks to @tylerclark for my first ride on an efoil board not too long ago. He has been extremely helpful in driving direction of the project and will have one of the first hulls… Thanks to everyone else for opening their designs to the community and providing such great information.

My plan is to document the build(s) of the boards here and hope to get feedback from the community, to drive future direction of the boards. As I am FULL TIME making eFoils, I am selling boards to support myself. So hopefully this hybrid build / sell thread approach is acceptable to all.

As a fairly large rider and beginner, the first boards I made are pretty big. 65” long, 29” wide, 4.5” thick, tapering down to 2” at the nose of the board. I have plans (and some plugs / molds) for both carbon fiber and fiberglass boards in 48”, 56”, 65”, & 72”.

For shipping to Europe, I found USPS will ship priority International for <$200 and takes 10 days (shipping time). I’m still flushing out the various methods to ship. Obviously quite expensive to ship large objects, despite the lighter weights, regardless of Europe, US, or elsewhere.

As of yet, I do not have a board with electronics, but I do have water tests behind a boat, as well as waterproof tests for the mast and electronics enclosures. I’ve reinforced the underside of the board to withstand the force of the foil. Above the mast is a waterproof enclosure to be able to mount a VESC, similar to the board Don built for @pacificmeister. The small (optional) mast enclosure connects to the main enclosure. This masts area has aluminum channel where the mast attaches to and that is glassed in with Kevlar and 1708 stitched mat fiberglass. The mast enclosure box (8x4x4) itself is epoxied to carbon fiber stringers (ribs) internally. I will document this in fusion in days to come.
The manufacturing process is based on top and bottom molds, with EPS foam internally. These initial versions are vacuum infused over the mold and future versions will be prepreg and cured in an oven. The oven is ready to go and molds are built high temperature, so easy transition from infusion to prepreg.

I hope to add foils in the future, but we have our hands full with making boards.

Please feel free to contact me directly with questions. I will document the production process over time and publish some pictures and video. Right now I’m working on Fusion models to show the insides and construction process of the boards. I started by building them by hand, so taking the opposite approach in reverse engineering my own designs into Fusion is taking some time.

Generally, I start by making a plug. To make a plug, I use MDF, XPS foam, fiberglass stitched mat, FGCI Superbond Epoxy, silica, graphite powder, router table, circular saw, random orbital sander, straigtline sander, rasp, & duratec products (surface primer, high gloss additive, aquabuff 1000, aquabuff 2000). They are typically vacuum infused, but often hand laid up and vacuum assisted. I learned an enormous amount from watching @virus videos and follow a generally similar process as he does, but with less carbon fiber in the plugs / molds (only because of budget constraints). Also I gleaned a lot from Boatworks Today, Easy Composites and love the work that Bruce Creations does. In the end, I’ve developed my own processes.

Once a class A finish is accomplished on a plug, I can pull a mold. Similar materials are used to make the molds, but I avoid foam, and focus on high temperature materials so they can be used in the oven. Once I can justify a CNC, I will switch to high temperature tooling foam to build plugs and molds. As of now, everything is hand shaped, with the help of router tables, jigs, etc.

Parts are made from either the plug or the mold and vacuum infused.

I have some preliminary results with a custom built oven, used to cure the prepreg. It’s a monster oven, 4’x4’x8’ in size, with rockwool insulation (good for 1000F temperatures) in a wood frame, with rocker board lining the inside. There’s a few different methods for heating that I’ve tried, but I’ve landed on stove heating elements and the back end of portable air conditioners to circulate the air in the giant box. The oven is a work in progress and has performed well so far, maintaining up to 350 degrees F (180C) for multiple 4 hour cycles. My intention is to stick to 250 F (130 C) prepreg, as it’s much easier to manage, easier on the oven, more efficient in general. However, I’m open for the higher temperatures if required…

Private message me, email, or call:

Noah
+1 646 808 3999

7 Likes

Really interesting and cheap shipping if the 200dollar are correct, might be interested in the future :+1:

Thanks! The quote I have is $160 to Austria, 10 day shipping, if under 130” total length plus girth. So this makes the 48 and 56 an option to ship International via USPS. If you give me exact postal code, I’ll get an exact quote. It’s shipping from Naples, Florida 34102, USA. I’m working on alternative shipping methods now.

Here are some numbers for each, in inches, centimeters, pounds, and kilograms. The weight values for all are subject to change, but they are close. All models will comes with a carbon fiber lid. Latches add some weight, but minimal.

name length in length cm width in width cm thickness in thickness cm weight lbs * weight kg liters **
carbon 48 48 122 24 61 4.5 11.43 11 5 72
carbon 56 56 142 27 69 4.5 11.43 13 6 95
carbon 65 65 165 29 74 4.5 11.43 15 7 118
carbon 72 72 183 32 81 4.5 11.43 20 9 144
fiberglass 48 48 122 24 61 4.5 11.43 16 7 72
fiberglass 56 56 142 27 69 4.5 11.43 20 9 95
fiberglass 65 65 165 29 74 4.5 11.43 25 11 118
fiberglass 72 72 183 32 81 4.5 11.43 28 13 144

* Based on carbon fiber lid with bolts, no latches, no hinges.
** Based on cubic inches, converted to liters, and 85% of that value.

2 Likes

Some questions I have received in private messaging, to start to build a FAQ:

1. Are the boards infused or wet-layup?

  • We are using resin infusion for now, but will soon be switching to “prepreg” and curing in the oven. The boards have a combination of some EPS foam on the inside, carbon fiber stringers (ribs), and hollow. We hope to eliminate the foam altogether in future iterations and / or switch to high-temperature foam for prepreg oven curing.

2. What primer is used?

Primer: Duratec 707-002

3. What top-coat is used?

Topcoat: Duratec 904-026

4. What infusion resin is used?

Infusion resins: PRO-SET infusion resins.

5. What clear coat is used?

Clear coat: West System 207 Special Hardener

6. How is the mast / track box supported / attached, hole patterns, etc?

We have taken a unique approach, gleaned partially off of the forum, where there is a 8"x4"x4" (20.32cm x 10.16cm x 10.16 cm) waterproof mast enclosure above the mast mount area. Both the standard 140mm x 90 mm and 160mm x 90mm hole patterns will work fine. There is ample flexibility to drill any combination of hole patterns, as long as the mounting plate fits within the 5.5" x 9.5" (13.97 cm x 24.13 cm) recessed area. The recessed area is designed to fit up to .25" (6.35mm) neoprene, which makes a waterproof bond with the mounting plate, once it is fixed tightly with M8 bolts against the mounting area.

The key advantage here is that a waterproof box, or any exposed electronics, can be mounted above the mast, into the mast enclosure. As long as either a) the electronics are waterproof, or b) no water infiltrates up through the mast, no additional box is necessary.

The mounting mechanism is aluminum channel and is reinforced with Kevlar, fiberglass 1708 stichted mat, and glassed to carbon fiber stringers (ribs) internally.

3 Likes

Several private message requests have asked about the difference between primed, vs. top coat, vs. clear coat vs. fancy graphics.

We can carve off a lot of the costs if only a prime coat is required. The finishing of the board is a lot of work. The board comes out of the mold primed. Top coat protects and fills in any issues. Clear coat is important if you want to keep the board’s luster.

The process is… primed (out of the mold) -> top coat (lots of layers with dry/wet sanding) -> fancy graphics -> clear coat - > wet sanding.

If we can deliver the board primed, it saves a bunch of time and headache. Moreover, I think that the DIY process is prone to scratches (and special needs for graphics, etc.), so primer only is a reasonable option, as you will be pissed off after you slip with your screw driver and scratch the new paint.

1 Like

Thanks to all who responded and bought boards since I posted this 2 weeks ago! It appears 48" is in the most demand, so that’s where I’m focused.

My excitement grew today quite a bit with a bunch of electronics that showed up. Here’s a picture of the plug for a 48" (top plug / mold), Flipsky 65161, with a Trampa vesc (heatsink is a joke…) and 196 cells ready to get wired up.

3 Likes

Split in the middle like lift ? For battery , 7s28p :smile:

My plan is to mimic @Flightjunkie on his battery build (7s14p x 2), no bms to start, fuses everywhere, external balancing chargers, etc. Actually I ended up with the same electronics as his build. Even though his build includes a lift board I bet that it outperforms Lift!

2 Likes

Very nice! Following this one.

This is a file repository of all the Fusion 360 (or STL files saved as Fusion) as I find them or make them. There are notes next to each whether I tested them or not.

Propellers & Ducts:
7.5" (196mm) duct, which fits the 7.25" propeller on the Flipsky 65161 motor. This is modified from pacificmeister’s duct.
https://a360.co/3fg3Q3q

Jezza’s Flipsky Prop:
https://a360.co/3gMTzMI

Modification to Jezza’s prop making it work for non-threaded 10mm Flipsky motor (tested and works, using a propeller shaft collar):
https://a360.co/325CWHK

12mm to 10mm adapter for Jezza’s Flipsky prop (tested and works, using a propeller shaft collar):
https://a360.co/3gPd1Zd

12mm to 10mm adapter for Flying Rodeo prop (tested and works, using a propeller shaft collar):
https://a360.co/3017p7a

@nice2cu flipsky 65161 prop (printed, but not tested yet):
https://a360.co/3237eeb

@superlefax 2 blade flipsky prop (not tested by me):
https://a360.co/2OhEMxj

@jakebarnhill1 propellers -
140mm 3 blade, high pitch (not tested by me):
https://a360.co/2Zv7qBm
130mm 3 blade (not tested by me):
https://a360.co/2CFj4AQ
Cap for @jakebarnhill1 130mm & 140mm props:
https://a360.co/32x8C9t

This is the propeller shaft collar I found to work well with the 10mm Flipsky 65161, non-threaded shaft.
Note the set screws on both sides of the collar. You need to modify an allen wrench to fit in the FR prop and / or drill holes in the prop to get a firm seat on the set screw. No issues after several hours of heavy load:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0816QSBBB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found these stainless steal dowels to work well in all 3 props tested above:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M8VH9WB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Enclosures

Trampa 75/300 6" x 6" x 3.75" enclosure (152mmx152mmx95mm) (3d printed, tested to be watertight with mcmaster square o-ring .21" 75A durometer). I epoxied a large heatsink from an old video card in the bottom of the box. It could be modified to be water cooled, but so far so good on the temperature with the heatsink alone. It hasn’t broken 50 C under load. I followed @Flightjunkie advice and made the VESC “swim” in CorrosionX. Note, there are no holes in this box (for battery / motor glands or threaded inserts), so you’ll need to drill your own after printing. Or add to the fusion file…

https://a360.co/2z4IdTT

Mast Clamps
@nice2cu flipsky mast clamps (not tested by me):
Back -
https://a360.co/2ZscQgD
Front -
https://a360.co/2WdiTDF

Connectors

Grabcad 8mm to 11m cable gland in Fusion native format (printed, but failed to print properly. Not sure how to 3d print threads…).

Wings
Eppler 817 Front Wing. Not tested by me…

https://a360.co/35qMdcG

7 Likes

Which prop have you enjoyed the most so far?

Yours is great for a starter. I was pleasantly surprised that it worked with the shaft collar on the 10mm shaft. It takes a shaft collar that has a large set screws on each side, so you can get some tension on the set screw. I did coat it in epoxy + silica + graphite powder. It was easy to modify in Fusion to bring it to 10mm. I need to add a holes to it for the allen wrench access to the shaft collar.

Flying Rodeo is the obvious winner, but a very large discrepancy in price from yours…

I had decent results with the 7.25" Yahama replacement prop and wanted to make sure to have a duct to not chop off any toes. I’m pretty sure the giant duct added a lot of drag.

The jezzas Flipsky prop is which pitch and size (want to compare to FR)?

Thanks!

Jezza Flipsky prop is 148mm diameter. Pitch is roughly the same as FR prop. My guess is 4", but that is just eye-balling it.

Edit: I see the FR prop is 6" pitch, so Jezza’s is closer to that.

I’ll do a 3d printed version of the FR prop so you can compare it to the real version…

3 Likes

Enclosures

I added a Trampa 75/300 enclosure (6" x 6" x 3.75" / 152mmx152mmx95mm) enclosure above.

Would a 72" version easily be convertible to a jet version?
How thick is the bottom layer? 2mm?

Hi @Kian,

The thickness would depend on if it was done with carbon fiber or fiberglass. More like 3mm to 5mm depending on the process. My general rule of thumb is carbon fiber is twice as expensive and half the weight of fiberglass.

Do you want to embed the jet into the tail of the board or do you plan to have the jet sit below the board? If it’s below the board, I could see how it could easily be adapted to mount a jet motor instead of a mast. Embedding it would be more work, but certainly much less work than starting from scratch.

There’s been very little interest in 72", as the general trend is to go smaller. I would be interested in making a 72… It wouldn’t be too hard to make an additional hatch for the motor and cut a hole in the tail of the board for the jet. Structurally I don’t see any issues, as the board is hollow already and supported by carbon fiber stringers. There are a few convertible solutions out there, so it’s definitely interesting to me.

1 Like

I added @superlefax 2 blade flipsky prop to the post above. I have not tested this prop.