If you can see and hear this as video and not just photo, you can hear that there is some “cogging” at lower speeds but smooth from about 30% to full throttle. I have ESC firmware that has zero speed at center 1500 msec pulse width, and goes from zero to full and zero to full reverse in either direction for there (800-2200 msec). I was hoping that using both units (motor and ESC) from Maytech I would get smooth performance throughout the throttle range, and maybe I will under load.
Here is the 8"x5 prop from a local used gear chandlery.
Might even try a 9" prop from typical 10Hp-15Hp outboard. But might be too much load for the 65162 motor.
With my earlier motor mounted on the upper unit, with belt drive and gearing, as shown in photos at top of posts, I need at least 100A at 75v (21S) to get on a plane. So about 7500W. But with direct drive and now right angle gears and belt drive, I expect this unit to be 10%-20% more efficient. So 7000W at 14S 52V= 135A. Within listed specs of the motor and ESC, but seems that Jezza and others are measuring max 124A. But that is with smaller prop.
Another question: at these high continuous loads do you think I need to water cool the 300A ESC mounted in the waterproof box? Would love to skip any water entry and exit tubes, but seems likely I’ll need it. Ok with just pressure from forward motion, skipping water pump?
Any feedback on all of this is greatly appreciated. Fun project! Problem is now that my boat is under a few feet of snow in the Sierras and the mountain lake is freezing over. Need to find a test boat in the Bay Area.
Find a used inflatable as a new test rig. It will plane easier too. I can plane out on a 4hp 4 stroke in a 7ft, 10ft, and 12ft inflatable. Also, a foil on the motor makes a big difference for planing with less power. Using a 10hp motor that is more comparable installing a foil in the outboard makes a massive difference in the amount of throttle needed to plane especially when the boat is heavily weighted. You can lose a mph or two, on the top end, but it’s worth it.
ESC forced water cool may be risky. I would monitor temps on both motor and esc. You will be pushing both harder than foilboard setups.
Interesting idea to find an inflatable to test with, if I can find one cheap. Regarding the cooling of the ESC, I would prefer to not water cool, for simplicity, but of course can do so if needed. I do have temp monitoring. I do have a small cast aluminum box I could mount just the ESC into, to act as a heat sink, with box mounted to an aluminum plate also, on top of the outboard. I may try this first, without water cooling. Typical ambient air temp during summer is about 70-75F. The typical lake water temp is about 65F during the summer, so I am hoping that the submerged motor will be ok with continuous (5-10 minute) load.
I am very interested in how the outboard project is going. Have you tested it in the water?
I have plans on a similar build, however a bit lower power (around 3000W continuous). I’m really curious how well the 65161 motor works for boats 