The first step? You mean the black glue we’ve put into the ribs. That’s a glue based on vinylester.
We’ve put the PLA parts, the actual foil together by soldering! Just heat up the PLA till you can melt them together, it takes some time, but a fine solution!
Here I am trying to make an efoil with my father as a school project and you guys are the precious help I needed
To this day we’ve bought the 56104 SSS motor and printed PacificMeister’s 3D models
Thank you,Pacific Meister and everyone for all the information and ideas on this site.Im having trouble deciding what gear reduction ratio would work with my set up;
A 4084 620kv brushless inrunner coupled with a Kenzen RC 110mm prop kort nozzle and a Turnigy AquaStar 200A Watercooled Sensorless High Voltage (ESC) with 6s lipo …I know its on the low power side ,But I plan on using a large 30 by 11 inch sup wing for lift…Any comments on which reduction gear would be ideal?any comments…thanks
I’m running a 50mm outrunner direct drive with a sup foil and am not even close to having enough power to ride. I realize you are running a gearbox but a 40mm motor might be pushing it.
Its an alien 5065. I have tried a number of different props and cant get the motor to pull more than 2000W. Even with huge props. Not quite sure where the bottle neck is. I would be happy burning the motor up so at least I know what it’s limits are but I cant even get it past 2K. More details and specifics can be found in this post. Oil Cooled, Direct Drive Build From the East Coast - #11 by Giga - Builds - FOIL.zone
You do know the alien 5056 motors draw a max of 1800-2200w right…? You wont get them anyhigher no matter what you try, as that is their power limit/design.
Yes I do but I was under impression that the current limit was only in place as a thermal limit for the motor. ie: if the motor was used to drive a load that would generate a higher current then its rated current, then the windings would overheat and the motor would soon fail. If this were the case (which it is seeming like it may not be) then I was hoping to be able to run the motor at a higher current rating using oil cooling to dissipate excess heat. I think you may be correct though that this current rating is a physical limit/ hard stop to how much power can be pushed through the windings
I am kicking off a build in Seattle, our ‘pacNW efoil’…with an ode to Pacmeister for leading this movement and sharing generously…thank you pacmesiter!
A bit of info on our build…three guys, ID, ME & EE so we should have our basis covered. We are following closely Pacmeisters first build, with the 5:1 Neugart, ,will document changes along the way.
Most parts are here but sill need board and transmission(any tips on finding this is helpful)…
I read these forums everyday and they are so helpful. I wanted to share my fully 3d printed foil and mast. I plan to glass the whole thing to increase its strength. If this works the whole print will cost about 15$ which would save a ton of money for the entire build. Any questions about the print feel free to ask. I have tried countless ways of printing this rig and finally found some success.
That looks great! How long did you print and did you have many pieces? Did you glue them or stick them together with printed features? I wish you much success with this plan. Please share some more details when you have had a chance to glass and test it.
It took about 8 days to print all the parts. The mast is 3 parts and the foil is 3 parts as well. Right now they are glued together. I printed the mast with 100% infill and the foil with 50%.I will let everyone know once it hits the water