Ordered a neugart ple40 1:20 gearbox. hope it fits off the box, if not I’ll make it fit
next thing is the esc, already found some quality esc but I’m thinking to go with the midrange since I’m watercooled and 12s. 100amp range watercooled should do the job. about 150€ planned for it.
suggestions boys?
kv: 1200
gb: 1:20
v: 44,4V
this makes= 44,4*1200/20=2664 rpm @ prop
perfect! belissimo. @Flo petg has a high chemical resistance.
Tetrahydrofuran (tangit pvc-u) does the job if you can wait at least 48h. but nothing is better then heat… I mean meltgluing
thx guys
500 g
heres the specs of this motor.
you could practically even run it with 100v as far as i know.
on my e-bike, the motor was rated for 48v. runs great on 100v too. some guys even did 125v.
but theres an equivalent effect like heat for ampere but for voltage, don’t know that effect, I’m sure some guys here know that
yes it will work… but (6): max speed 18000 rpm , 1000times in the life of the gearbox
the same for the motor: heat and metal wear on the bearings above 50 000 rpm… it will work but propably most chance to break when you start having fun and have learned to foil
interesting to see a 40mm motor full speed with a 20:1 , it will make some torque
is looking like a cock
as i appreciate your opinions. I ordered a controller of the high class. around 400€.
mgm controller
I’m a fucking crazy fucker, this a ps4 in my alutube.
the backwing looks so beautiful, like modern art.
matrix 3d printed style I LOVE IT
btw it’s the eppler wing one guy (big thx to him) postet some weeks ago
wanted to show you a little sideproject of mine, as I have too much money and too much time.
It’s a 3d printed hand, for another disabled lad. He had a serious accident and can’t move his hands. but is able to move his arms.
the bodyfingers get “attached” to the fingers. servo will close the 3d hand and I hope his hand too.
Hope this lad will be able to hold a beer again…
i was using the same wattmeter … it’s not easy to read with the sun.
I though that it doesn’t matter, as long at i get my max values at the end… but i had some breaker issue and basically each time i was getting back to the beach power was off… so no data usable.
Start thinking of how you can mount a camera with a good view of it if you want to gather data
The controller does datalogging, very expensive but the all around package is very good. You can see all data afterwards on computer.
a little preassembly:
lot of holes to drill
If that’s not already your plan, you might want to rotate the full fuselage / wing assembly 180 degree along its axis.
Almost all the weight is transmitted to the front wing. The way it is in you picture, the screws will take the full load. I’m not concerned about the screw breaking, but the stress on the wing itself will be way more concentrated than if the fuselage was pushing against the wing.
@Mat yes the front wing is upside down, whole tube must be rotated 180°. Backwing isn’t screwed or glued yet, otherwise I couldn’t make a picture, backwing would fall down
@Hiorth I honestly think that the frontwing would brake, this is why I will print it again with a hole going nearly through the whole wing to screw a rod in for stiffness. I don’t like to work with fiberglass, it’s messy and dirty^^
Don’t misunderstand me, PETG is very strong, I couldn’t brake it by hand yet, but the bending is pretty high and I think it would cause “aerodynamical” flow problems
And i will shorten the alutube, now it’s 750mm, will cut it down to 625mm.
Mast is cut down to 600mm too as you guys recommended.
Could this hand be a waterproof remote? The remotes look so goofy in-hand. Why not make the waterproof remote part of a glove / 3d printed hand of some sort?
