Programmability is nice, but in theory you can put the soft start and stop functionality in the receiver, if you program it yourself (arduino). You will need something to save the gearbox, if it is the ESC or the receiver/remote doesn’t matter much.
But as Alexandre mentioned, you will probably run into trouble with a 6s setup. Much higher currents that will flow and put strain on the ESC and wiring. Especially the ESC won’t last long, those hobby ESCs aren’t meant for that kind of abuse, they are designed for really short bursts not human transportation with long periods of high current. When it says 150A continuous that doesn’t mean it can really provide 150A continuous. Beyond several seconds of load the realistic continuous current drops significantly. That is also a problem with 8 and 12s, but it is not as big there. I would highly recommend using 12s.
The VESCs are one of the few ESCs that can take continuous high load without burning sooner or later (because they have current limiting and effective overheat protection). Spending 100-200€ extra can quickly pay off if your cheap 100€ ESC burns up the first time you accelerate. And you get logging and good programmability on top.
thanks for your advice @Alexandre . If I can find a good reduction box I’ll go higher on voltage, I’m not going for a high powered high end setup. gliding at 35km/h would be my goal… think 1500w are enough for this kind of riding? @Benjo
I’m trying to find a version of it fitting into my alutube. max size Xmm x 38mm x 18mm
watercooled is a must for me
btw I dont think that any motor has more power or torque then any other. coppermass and heat dissipation is the key to reach high power. the sss can do 10000w too If you cool it real good. there are no magic tricks… edit: If specs are the same
which reduction gearboxes do you guys use?
I wanted to go with the reisenauer 7:1
but shop is in holidays, so I couldn’t buy it yet…
That size constraint for the ESC is a problem of course. Still I think those cheap ESCs aren’t a good idea if you don’t plan ro replace it repeatedly. As for the watercooling, a VESC 6 can be easily watercooled by a water cooling plate.
The problem is that no matter what power goal you set yourself, the lower your voltage is the higher the currents are. And high currents are the death of your ESC. You have to compare an eFoil more to an eBike or eSk8 than to an RC vehicle. There is a reason those high power vehicles use 8s - 13s much more often than 6s.
Apart from that 35kmh is a pretty high goal even with a higher power motor and higher voltage. I think not many go way beyond 30kmh, those with lower power setups are more around 20kmh.
The biggest problem you have is that your motor has such a high KV.
32-35km/h with big wing on 8s : 130A with a 40mm motor , i use the reisanauer chief 1:6 and FR propeller
I need to do more test and probably need a 56mm motor above 30km/h and 12s
A good set up for me : sss4092 600kv , chief 6:1 3p or 4p , 12s, esc hv 130-200a , propeller ±130mm pitch 5"
I have “glued” my PLA prints with the extruder of my 3d printer before. I just have a gcode that runs the extruder at a slow speed. The nozzle melts the parts to be joined and fills the void with the newly extruded plastic. I joined my battery pack holder this way and so far this is holding up. I just add dovetails to my joints, or just plain box joint fins to increase the surface area. I glued PLA with Evoink Acrifix, but I don’t have experience with printing PET-G.
Your method seems to work, so well done. I just want to share the ideas of mechanicaly stabilising the joint area with a box joint and joining with the extruder. Although without some kind of foot switch the extruder method is almost a two man job.
Ordered a neugart ple40 1:20 gearbox. hope it fits off the box, if not I’ll make it fit
next thing is the esc, already found some quality esc but I’m thinking to go with the midrange since I’m watercooled and 12s. 100amp range watercooled should do the job. about 150€ planned for it.
suggestions boys?
kv: 1200
gb: 1:20
v: 44,4V
this makes= 44,4*1200/20=2664 rpm @ prop
perfect! belissimo. @Flo petg has a high chemical resistance.
Tetrahydrofuran (tangit pvc-u) does the job if you can wait at least 48h. but nothing is better then heat… I mean meltgluing
thx guys
500 g
heres the specs of this motor.
you could practically even run it with 100v as far as i know.
on my e-bike, the motor was rated for 48v. runs great on 100v too. some guys even did 125v.
but theres an equivalent effect like heat for ampere but for voltage, don’t know that effect, I’m sure some guys here know that
yes it will work… but (6): max speed 18000 rpm , 1000times in the life of the gearbox
the same for the motor: heat and metal wear on the bearings above 50 000 rpm… it will work but propably most chance to break when you start having fun and have learned to foil
interesting to see a 40mm motor full speed with a 20:1 , it will make some torque
is looking like a cock
as i appreciate your opinions. I ordered a controller of the high class. around 400€.
mgm controller
I’m a fucking crazy fucker, this a ps4 in my alutube.
the backwing looks so beautiful, like modern art.
matrix 3d printed style I LOVE IT
btw it’s the eppler wing one guy (big thx to him) postet some weeks ago
wanted to show you a little sideproject of mine, as I have too much money and too much time.
It’s a 3d printed hand, for another disabled lad. He had a serious accident and can’t move his hands. but is able to move his arms.
the bodyfingers get “attached” to the fingers. servo will close the 3d hand and I hope his hand too.
Hope this lad will be able to hold a beer again…
