I hear you but at the same time it seems all commercial efoils are using ducts. I understand they might have to because their product needs to be ultra safe, but still it feels a bit scary without one 
at least you have convinced me to try without the duct.
With the Gong build V2 I might afford the extra drag from different experimental ducts but certainly not with this 3D-printed setup haha
More worried about this, 25kg board with a foil dropping on you at speed.
Tried without the duct and with tape over the holes in the nose cone. Maybe a tiny bit faster and it felt like it wanted to lift out of the water a little bit. Gonna try with the 3d-printed no duct adaptor between the propeller and motor to further reduce drag. Then I am also gonna sand of some unnessecary parts sticking out from under the board.
Pretty sure I am not gonna get this 3D-printed setup flying and that is totally OK. It was a fun long shot to begin with and I learnt a lot 
But us there anything else I could do in the VESC to gain more power before I begin with the Gong V2?
you should try it in water and get some logs or screenshots to see if the program puts out what itâs supposed to before moving on. if you get less than 3kW input power then there are things to update.
Yes will do. Can I get the log saved and upload to you guys somehow?
Is it only watts I am looking for?
You will need to have a bluetooth module (or built in bluetooth) to connect your vesc to your phone, and the phone will need to ride along in there to log data. There are also a few other data logging modules out there, but I havenât used them (and I think they cost a bit more but have other functionality built in).
While it is possible to upload raw vesc log files, those require some kind of processing in order to be viewable. I think the simplest way is to upload to Vetr.at Howto
Then you get a link with all your ride data. It will include battery current, motor current, duty cycle, and a few other things.
And if you donât have bluetooth bring laptop and usb cable, try it in a pool, rain water tank, childrens pool, whatever with some volume and depth. Or fix your board to a dock.
Power is the most significant, because you canât have it without rotation speed but while youâre logging might as well check battery current, motor current and voltage drop, especially if you get noisy motor control or cutouts.
I dont have the bluetooth connector so I will bring the laptop to the water and but propeller in the water while keeping the board on the low part of the dock. Then I will update 
Depending on what version of the Flipsky Vesc you have you might already have Bluetooth built in. Ie pro models
If not this is the Flipsky Bluetooth module
Hello again,
I tried the board on the dock today while connected to my PC and it turned out that for some reason all the amps values jumped down a lot, like 89A on max motor current for example (set it to 180A before). It must have reset after the last auto setup and I only got the motor to approx 1500 watts which explains why it felt so weak in the water before.
I now changed to the settings from Ludwig Bre, see picture. It now draws 3200 watts so great improvement 
after 3200 watts it cuts out and I get a red box in the bottom right corner saying something like over current protection ish.
Should I change values further or should I leave them be? It would be nice not to have the motor suddenly stop going WOT and to a massiv face plant, especially with a rifle case board
Overcurrent protection means it has lost control, it might be that the cutouts donât occur while riding on the water but i would start with:
-testing the different observer types
-Then trying it when riding
-Then increasing abs max current to 250-300A (this is risky for the esc since it allows out of control current spikes to go higher. In worst case the esc dies but risk is low)
-Then lowering motor current to 150A
(Then add some saturation compensation, google it)
Lost control? I rev up slowly to the max throttle so its not really start ups.
It sound dangerous to change the battery power to. Is there something else I can do to make sure I can push WOT without a cut out?
One thing I do not understand is that the motor draws 136A and only gets to 3200 watts?? I have 14s (51,8v) and 51,8 x 136 is around 7000 watts, not the 3200 watts I am seeing.
Motor current and battery current is not the same, only battery current can be used to calculate power.
Motor current is always higher, up to max rpm. Below gif shows a varied motor current from zero rpm to full speed.
Itâs a long explanation behind but the reason is that motors are not driven in short circuit operation - not like opening a switch, the current is controlled by only applying part of the available voltage to reach commanded motor current.
Okay so no quick fix to be able to go WOT without risking dangerous cut outs even if that means limiting power?
I am OK if it cuts out before 3200 watts or so. What I am not OK with is if I happen to touch the throttle just a little bit to much I hurt myself badly I hope you understand what I mean here.
My Daly BMS has a limit of 200A, can I change the battery current to like 180A (not going over the 200A BMS limit) and not have it cut out on me or does that not matter in this case?
Bms or battery current setting doesnât matter, itâs not close to these limits. Youâll only have 70A battery current max.
If you want you can lower motor current but i would not do that until you have tried it riding. Cutouts are less likely when you have speed since torque load on the motor decreases.
What happens in the cutout is that the esc loses control and stops the operation due to this. âLoses controlâ is relatively speaking, your abs max current is close to your max current so protection limit is reached easily. I would test observers, then increase it to 250A with the best observer.
Why do feel you need to go to WOT at all?
If your rig is that inefficient that you have to use max power to foil then you should change it imo.
Tried changing motor current max to 150A (same as battery current) and now I do not have cutouts at WOT still get about 3200w out of the motor but need to further improve it to get more power without cutouts or burning the battery/esc.
It went so so much faster in the water with 3200w and I really felt it wanting to lift me up
Without me on it flew like a meter high up out of the air at WOT. Looked really cool!
The Maytech remote died though so that is a set back. Put silicone around the screen but that didnt help. Any recomendations for a really good reliable remote?
Because my build is a 100% custom 3d-printed build with at lot of drag I currently need WOT. Fun to build but not efficient. Gonna start working on V2 with a Gong mast, wing and motor mount soon no matter if I make this version fly or not
The reason I wanna be able to go WOT was also that I was afraid of cutouts resulting in face plants if I pushed the throttle a little bit to far (even when optimized and hopefully flying OK)
Youâll do more faceplants anywayđ
Maybe when you get your Gong foil on you will find some better performance although trying to get a blunt nosed, flat bottom rectangle moving through the water fast enough for the foil to work is likely a much bigger issue IMO.
Foiling along and having a touchdown or contacting a piece of chop high enough to catch the nose is gonna leave a markđ
Nice that you had fun with the build but not a good platform to learn how to foil on imo
The first gun case build I believe was done by a couple of guys playing around for fun just to see if they could get it to work. Never intended as an easy to use rig.
Have a look at the majority of successful - fun to use rigs here and available commercially and very few are based on a gun case.
