Use an ebike controller. I’ve been trying to get others to use them, haven’t seen any other builds with them. Space isn’t a problem on a foilboard. There’s a reason why bikers don’t use RC ESCs and the same reasons why we shouldn’t. Why not try it out? They are also way cheaper, $50 buys a decent one.
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And what about erpm ? I need 3600rpm for the propeller , with a 6:1 gearbox … So a about 75000 erpm (édit pair of poles …) , it may be a problem with this type of controller
Erpm shouldn’t be a problem most will do at least 28k. Depends on what you want to try - sensored or sensorless, high quality or cheap $40. Voltage and amperage are the key. You can run 36v on a direct drive. Like Alexandre you might need 48v to get the right rpm. You can easily do a shunt mod for higher amperage. The huge plus with an ebike controller is current limiting. It won’t catch fire like the RC controllers will.
Ebikes in Germany are 250W max. Are there controllers for 3kW?
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new design parts in sls for 2019
for 57mm tubing
including gap for o-rings
square mount for the gearbox, no more screw
thrust bearing still outside but flush to the propeller…
2 seals for the shaft
keep the same front mast clamping to save money
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you know you can not put the screws into the gearbox, from the other side
so what would keep the gearbox that he would not push in
Yes it is! 
♂:blush:
nice 
there will be no axial force on the shaft, no push on the gearbox:
- thrust bearing outside between tubing mount and propeller
- propeller pin groove is flush to the bottom and deeper than the diameter
- the propeller is pushing on the thrust bearing not on the pin
- the propeller is “loose” from the shaft
- bolt on the shaft after the propeller
so 1mm play forward and backward for the gearbox, and a bolt on a rear prop so it won’t came off the pin when slowing down
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@flying_rodeo, a piece of art, really !
@Alexandre, is the copper piece between the chief and the chief shaft screwed to the Reisenauer ? What is it for please ?
2 of these :
https://www.bricorama.fr/lot-de-2-raccords-laiton-tibelec-double-femelle.html
Screwed and glued on the shaft , one for the seals one to center the thrust bearing
Just to smooth the shaft to 12mm and to keep the end with m10x100
new board, thanks to @Gobbla
water line included in the mast
fitting new part and tubing 57*60
waiting to choose the motor to cut the tube
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I like the new board! Are you planning on making an electronic compartment inside the board?
yes i would like to, but it is not deep enough for most waterproof case (100mm)
so i might add 30mm to the board or build a custom waterproof case, i just need 80mm for the 18650 and the board will be ok
i want something flat on top …
as a new board, it is a rrd k race 2012-2013 carbone pvc, beautiful , i don’t want to cut it …
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I feel you haha. I also have a brand new race board (cabrinha VMG carbon). I am planning on inserting a ride engine track box to mount the foil, and create a built-in waterproof compartment for my battery pack and electronics so that everything fits inside the board. If you want to brainstorm idea on how to proceed and make everything water tight, send me a pm. Je parle Francais aussi!!
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thank you…
my plan is to use or build a waterproof case, no compartement “waterproof” in the board
it got use to put the case on top (on the old board), i find it more convient this way, i just want it inside the new board
Why not build a compartment then? I also thought of making a custom box at first so I am curious to know why you would prefer a custom box to a custom compartment!
easier to carry just the board and just the case, the board can be “left” in the car, i use the case to carry and protect the battery, easier to work on electrical parts at home without the board, stronger to put my feet on it…
Good points! I might make a battery case but not necessarily waterproof as it will be in the waterproof compartment. How are you planning on fixing the foil to the board?