Wow - well you used the applicable adjective!!
Didnât fail on layer line so wonder what would cause that to happen - the other two blades donât show any damage so you didnât hit anything. Seems weird that the rotation force would cause one blade just cracking off.
It was pretty thin, 1.2mm tip thickness and 4.5mm root thickness, that was ambitious for a home print. My goal was to validate the prop performances before ordering a alu print. That did not work out as expected^^
Ideally, I want to be below current limitations of the vesc at 95%duty cycle to have efficient control and reduce failure risk.
Have you considered trying the Flipsky prop that is too big for Efoil?
Yes I have to try it, can probably get one locally from a friend. Those are reported to vibrate quite a bit.
Turns out my session yesterday ended not because the battery were too low, but because the esc lost a phaseâŠ
There are no visible signs on the fet, but it is most definitely shorted on the high side.
Will try to replace it, but separating both pcb is a pain in the ass on makerbase controllers and most two layer controllers.
PPA-CF is definitely not a panacea. For a propeller of this size, you might need to print with a 0.6 nozzle and a 0.3 layer thickness, followed by extensive final sanding. Iâm currently printing Volker blades for a new 16s 3p Boogie battery, and Iâve noticed that they break at a 0.12 layer thickness, while they work well at 0.20.
Ordered a ppm>0-5v board to be able to use a silixcon sc esc on base firmware, I have few units with damaged can/halls/uart that could do just fine on the boat.
Safety will be a concern in case of conversion board failure. I will add a physical kill switch on the motor cover, and think about some sort of strategy where full throttle is 2.5v and above 3v triggers a fault to reduce risks of full thottle eventsâŠ
Got the first test on the silixcon controller done, config is not ideal seems like there is some saturation /desync going on at 50% throttle. Was better in bldc mode, but I would like to do some field weakening.
I used the new 3kwh battery mounted in a bow bag all the way to the front of the boat. Continuous power was set at 6000w.
Battery being hammered pretty hard :
After fiddling with settings for a while, and low battery, I could get sub planning around 15kph, but not faster. What was strange is that the power did not drop at top speed. It seems that this combo would work better with more rpm/fully charged battery, will test again.
Tested a 175mm printed prop, but the flite remains better, smoother.
Anyone has a working foc config for silixcon and 62161 motor?
New upgrades works but Damm I lost all technique for starts.
Setup is clean with the battery bag all the way in the front, and added parts on the motor to avoid wire tangle.
Reworked the battery (bms change) so i now have BT and working canbus.
Added dedicated attachement points to the hull for the bag.
I have quite a lot of play in the steering, need to re-tigthen it all, but assembly /disassembly is a pain, system is not optimized.
I was recommended another prop to try, in order to reach higher power.
Ready for next sessions, setup is clean for tow and family rides at displacement speeds. Next goal is to be able to get on plane with the family onboard, on glassy water.
few vids
Starting with my pump board is impossible, lacking the mid range torque, probably badly set power limit or PID in the controller. I can lift around 30 cm underwater but is just stays there and can not get on foil without stalling the foil. 4â2 is easier.
Having trigger return spring issues with the Bremote V2, have to look into that, I also wish it was flatter and floating.
pump Start from the boat floats, while slowly driving forward
