3D printing, how do you do it?

Maybe the props were a little bit special geometry which made the glass break.
I am trying to build the mast clamp for 63100 with gong foil. I think it was too tight:


I print this with PETG 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm nozzle, 250°C/80°C at 27mm/s, almost no cooling.
Maybe i still can use the part with a single screw through the crack? Some more sanding on the interface to make it fit better.

Wow, 100% infill?
PETG clamp I print 230°,80°, 35-40mm/s 0,2mm, 10-20% cooling, 6perimeter, 60% infill. Its strong and still a bit flexibel.
Holds so far, no issues after over 20h heavy riding in Saltwater

Take aways from this video:

  1. Drying is important not only for stringing, but also for strength, specifically layer adhesion.
  2. Pla, asa, abs do no require drying.

I’m anything but a 3D printing master but I don’t agree that PLA doesn’t need drying. I have had numerous misprints with “damp” PLA. Put the same spool in my dryer and get it down to the right humidity level and the problems are gone.

Yes, I agree. It is only his conclusions.

Drying pla makes a huge difference for me. Here is a pic of a recent pla-cf print I did with dry filament. No way you can get this good withdamp pla.

Also do not assume new in bag is dry. This pla came all vac sealed but when in my dryer it showed over 50%!!! 8hrs later at 50C it was less than 20% and printing smooth as this.

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I cant reach this quality. Dozens of tries already. Can you share the parameter to print with this perfect quality overhang?

I am using a ender 3 neo and cura latest default pla profile as start.
layer 0.16
perimeter walls 10 or more
creality hyper pla-cf at 230C bed at 60C
support zigzag with brim and roof, overhang angle 72.
printed TE on plate

Dry the pla so 20% or less.
Print in a room no windows and no disturbance of wind or vibration…at night is best

Does a 3d benchy boat look perfect? Must have at least that good before messing around with props.

ALso esun pl+ prints well just not as slick as the pla-cf

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