Hey @nekitesurfing, for laminating, did you remove a 2mm layer from the overall CAD design or did you sand where necessary after? Thanks!
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I sanded it down but this was a long and quite tedious task. If I was to do it again I would have printed it slightly smaller. Particularly the props.
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Concerning the efficiency, is it a real game changer as FD claims compared to what you had before ?
Because I did one take off before it broke by cavitation with my PA12 one and I did not feel any big difference compared to my 2 blades propellerking.
I have no way of measuring the efficiency on my set up. I have only used it 3 times so far but in terms of “feel” I find there is more thrust but it isn’t a big difference. I too have the propeller king two blade folding prop which is excellent so I wouldn’t say you need to change. I just like experimenting.
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Hey people,
Did you try cf?
Cf-pet (not petg) seems stronger than cf-petg, from reviews.
I would guess that the orientation of printing the blades matters a lot. Probably horizontally should be stronger, although needs cleaning. Temperature as well higher maybe to fuse the layers.
Maybe propellers better be printed with a resin printer because resin doesn’t depend on orientation.
Here is what the test print look like for my version with small blades.
Not super conviced It seems like there will be too much drag.
Good Idea but I would reduce the diameter of the hub at least to motor diameter to avoid drag: 63mm
Could you explain what do you want to achieve with your design ? Is it necessary to use such small blades ?
Tks
Wanted to reuse existing blade designs.
It it is not possible to make it smaller because the Bolts have some interferences then.
Hub diameter is 80mm
The flite prop is uploaded and linked somewhere here on the forum, that’s an alright prop
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Works well for the 63100, might have too much pitch for the shorter outrunners.
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I tried it. I didn’t really like the appearance of the part. I didn’t notice any particular increase in strength. I heard that thermal post-processing is needed.
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Realy nice. Unfortunately I don’t have a lathe.
I did an adapter like this with a 3d printed part and a bolt. Works well (but need to be balanced like any prop)
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Which blades are you using at this propeller?
Can you re-share this file?
I am not the owner from the file.
FWIW I have printed @Bzhwindtalker 's prop shared here: Shared projects - Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits Thanks Adam!
I have printed the hub using PETG-CF on my Bambulabs P1S and the props using an old AnyCubic Photo UV resin printer… using the Siraya Tech Blu resins - I have used the Black Lava - with amazing results. I have used this for 10 sessions and no signs of degrading.
I wrote about it here: New waist belt foil assist build from Queensland - #28 by thuffam
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Just an update (i mentioned on my new waist build)… these blades would eventually break after several sessions but discovered this is due to me accelerating too hard. Now i ramp up slower and havent broken a prop since.
New to efoil and to 3D design but managed to design a new hub similar to the Magic Hub for my Foildrive gen 1 with 6374 after breaking it against my leg. (I was glad it wasn’t stronger). It is surprising to find such power loss when I went to the original 2 blade Foildrive hub. I tried a FD three blade and it had similar power but burned the battery faster than the Magic Hub (which is no longer available). The new hub is being printed and hopefully will be no stronger or weaker.
I’m hoping to find a folding propeller file that can fit in the Foildrive hub, 20 mm wide base. I tried links in this thread but have not found any.
Preferably it would have similar pitch and length as the metal Foildrive props and maybe even spin in the counter clockwise direction like foildrive. I guess i could mirror the file to change spin. The molding method would be much less desireable.