Asked already (flipsky shop on aliexpress) , they asking 70$ for set with shipping. 55$ without shipping. Also asked them to tell me price for each part but they don’t wont gave me that info. Just to pay with points 70$ and they will send to me. As for expirience I don’t like to buy something wihout knowing what is it… On the other sources for example ceramic seal is max 1-2€ rubber seal can’t be more…
That’s nice from you . You may create listing on your website shop. I will make purchase. I am sure that other members will make purchase also. Also you can include in listings bearings too. This is very popular and good motor. With proper maitenance can last…
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Awesome service! Well done
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Glad to hear, and thank you for your complimentary comments about our motor.
But I can offer limited service for you on this spare part listing, not good for our manufacturing brand actually.
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What a great subject. Mine has been going for 1.5 years and I was thinking of doing it before it goes wrong. I will be following this like. Well Done
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Hi, my motor (edit: Flipsky 120kV) ran for two summers and then the bearings started keeping noise. After a week of not foiling the prop shaft was stuck, and could be forced to move again but some maintenance seemed to be in order. I have partly disassembled the motor, but am stuck with the backplate now. I got the rotor out and it has clearly taken some water in from the prop shaft, but just enough to kill the bearings.
Anyone know how I should pull the backplate apart without damaging it?
Is my prop shaft gasket the old and bad type? The bearing marking may not be obvious from the image, it’s NSK 6001V.
Backplate:
Prop shaft stack:
I decided to do my annual checks to see if everything is OK.
My seal has held up OK with no sign of water beyond the bearing but a few drops of water past the seal, the bearing was not as smooth as I expected, time for a new bearing, shaft seal and O ring.
Details of the bits removed.
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Bearing NSK 6001DDU 28mm x 12mm x 8mm, this is a standard deep groove with contact rubber seals.
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O ring, 45mm inside diameter, 2.5mm cross section diameter, material is a very soft rubber.
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Shaft seal, think I need to order one from ebay like this one and give it a try, see if its the correct size.
This is what I removed. At the time it was the new seal arrangement, it looks different from yours Kooma75 as yours has an extra metal disc??
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On both of my motors I notice corrosion
on top bearing, after 3 year of using first motor filled with wuert corosion and second one was filled with crc 6-66 it was left few drops of oil. There no others corosion signs. I filled now both of them with mineral oil. All time I am using my efoils in salt wather. Conclusion, I will do maintenance onice per year and periodically change bearings.
You can find parts at any online shop. I purchased mine from Aliexpress
Bearings NSK 6001 DDU
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtvtN4c
Rubber seal ID 45mm
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mM3tJvW
Ceramic seal 12mm edit: you have to choose 12mm d7-26mm
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Thanks for the links, I need to order a set as well. The metal disc was between the gasket and the bearing in my motor. I am not sure if it adds value or not.
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You can use metal disc again, the maintenance you may do while motor is mounted on mast. It’s not necessary to remove back plate, bottom bearing you can remove with puller…
I’ve just started to take mine apart, I had to drill out one of the bolts that hold the prop spacer on as it was seized to find a lot of salt build up behind it. To then find that all the bolts that hold the end plate on are now seized 
. I don’t know whether to just put up with the noise I carry on using it till it goes bang or try drill them out 
Couldn’t resist!
It was definitely letting water in, as all the corrosion x had escaped and there was water trapped between the seal and the bearing.
Im going to have some fun trying to get those threads out, I’ve not got much to play with…
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Wow, yeah, that’s going to be tricky.
Good job with the drilling you’ve done already, nice and centered.
I’m thinking if I get some nuts, M3 i think? and screw them on to the remanding couple of threads then fill the rest up with the mig welder, the heat will help loosen up the threads and hopefully be able to loosen them off. I’m only going to get one shot at it though I think so 
…
Near m3 you have m4. Just flaten broken nuts and use m4…
I don’t recall to have seen such a terrible case on the forum.
How could one do to prevent the screws from being seized on a new motor ? Tef gel and mineral oil once a year ?
I was wondering what that other ring of threads were for, are they the same diameter? theres no detail for them on the motor diagram?. The only issue is i will have to turn the cap head crews into countersunk as the m4 bolts wont fit in the m3 holes. Good plan B though if shit hits the fan.
Yeah, man it’s m4 just turn it. Find some m4 bolts. Maby you will need to modify holes on cap. It will save your time…
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Maybe put some grease or zinc paste on the screws. Zinc paste works well for me on the screws of the mast plate and fuselage to mast connection. Aluminium and stainless steel in salt water is a bad combination…