I love the Tampa Hackerspace orange!
@Mat What size are the bolts for the mast clamp to motor? Still waiting on Alien Systems to deliver the motor so I’m trying to prepare! Do you also know the size of the connections on the motor? Thanks!
they are M5 by 55mm.
for the electric connection, I shortened the leads a lot and I used bullet connectors, not sure the size… it’s the one where 8 gauge wire barely fit inside…
Awesome, thank you!
That prop is magic!
I slightly modify it to remove some sharp edges… https://a360.co/2PgkxiY
Printed in PLA to keep the dimensions / shapes as clean as possible.
sanded smooth and then one layer of carbon fiber all over:
and then water time! with better temperature than previous test:
Autonomy is now 30 minutes on 12s 16Ah
but I really need a warning when the battery is getting low… I ended with a bit more than 10m minutes swim to come back…
Max speed is now around 34km/h @ 5kW
Cruising around 20km/h @ 1.7kW
still using the same liquid force impulse wing… I suspect that where the energy goes at higher speed…
only problem is that I hit the bottom a couple time going fast and the board didn’t like … it cracked a bit on the front of the foil attachment… not sure if it will be easier to repair or make a new board…
next step: make mold to produce that propeller full carbon! … and may be make a new board…
Nice video. All that logging comes from the Flier!?
can you tell me what corrosion X you use?
nono, it’s coming from the Elogger http://www.eagletreesystems.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=54
i have the one with 150A leads, a GPS, a RPM sensor, and a temperature sensor.
Works good so far, but i think i remember someone blowing one up.
it’s corrosion X HD, aerosol can, not sure why i picked this one though…
I though about it, I wanted to test the prop as is first as it seemed better performing than the solas.
If I can save my board, I might do a quick print like you suggest, may be PLA only as the blades will be smaller.
i’m not sure what kind of difference to expect though…
yeah, sounds familiar
you know what kind of current you had? i mean … before it exploded…
i just checked my log and i had quite a few spikes above 120A, but nothing longer than a few seconds above 80-90A…
I’m not drawing much current at all. Its the water that got inside. I’m having trouble getting a good seal. I’ve tried a number of closed cell foams and none of them hold their shape. So they work once and then leak. any suggestions?
I’m using "JVCC SCF-02 Single Coated PVC Foam Tape [medium density] / Size: 1/8 in. thick foam x 1/2 in. x 75 ft.”
It look like you have something similar, but i did the reverse: foam glued on the board, not on the “hatch”.
When I glued the foam, I used superglue to seal the joints.
Also, make sure your cover is thick enough to not bow when you step on it…
However, for the next board, i’ll ditch the the multiple screw solution and try something with a latch or 2… all those screws are a pain to install and remove each time…
thanks Mat. I agree…I hate all the screws. It seemed like a good idea at the time. ha
I made a printed frame with nuts embedded in and then glassed the frame in. It holds really well but is a huge pain removing.
What thickness cover are you using on the hatch?
I have been thinking of installing a charger port into the hatch with a magnetic switch. That way once it’s on, it’s there till something fails.
I think it’s some inch fraction close to 6mm… polycarbonate, I’ll have to double check.
To make sure it doesn’t flex too much, I made my bays not too wide and I made 2 instead of one.
If you get access to all your ports from the outside, it’s perfect, but be careful that it doesn’t stay close too long or you might find your screws corroded stuck inside…
I have to open the battery bay to charge the batteries each time (to access the balance port)
I have the round hatch to turn the board one and off, but in the end i have to take the cover off anyway to access the Elogger usb port …