@Mat as my esc should arrive in the Text Week i was wondering why 4 +/- cables come out of the flier esc. Do I need to solder them together - -and ++ or just connect the battery to one +/- cables.
And do you have any tips for me that I don’t blow a esc again up. The flier is well overpowered but I’m still sceptic.
this is to share the current between the wires (smaller diameter is easier to bend, solder, etc.), so connect the red wires in parallel to + and the black ones to - .
Just letting you know @Felixfoiler , I tried using 2 YEP120A HV ESC’s with my 80100 and both blew up. You aren’t doing anything wrong, the YEP 120A ESC’s simply can’t handle the current the 80100 draws and no matter what you do with timing or active freewheeling, they still lose sync above a certain rpm of the motor in my experience. As long as your solder joins are solid you will have no problem with the Flier 400a!
sorry for letting you wait. I could now try the pod. The duct is very stiff and does not vibrate while flying.
But: The propeller is way to large. I could not manage to have a proper consumption. I also think that the huge rotating surface adds even more friction. It should give you an idea how it can maybe be realised. I think the key is to change the propeller.
I’m now going a different road with peters motor. The duct with his setup is working quite nice and does not take that much power than my ducted outrunner version.
As promised please find the whole assembly of my 80100 pod:
Im also going a different road now. I will change to a flipsky 100/120kv inrunner. Waterproof easy to mount a duct and more efficient then anything would be with the 80100 motor.