https://hobbyking.com/en_us/yep-180a-hv-4-14s-marine-brushless-speed-controller-opto.html
Does anybody know about this one? I know HK is not the cheapest nor the better quality but it’s quick and reliable, usually
You could try this guy selling a pretty fancy looking esc. Might still have one.
Very nice VESC, but price is a little over my budget and my enclosure is designed for watercooling, this have thick aluminum case.
Question: how long it takes Alien to deliver, usually?
I think you need to figure out why your setup is burning out all the ESC’s. Most guys with the seaking 130A are getting by just fine! I have a YEP120A with modded heatsink and can even run it for 5 minutes with no watercooling (I also know that wiltech.eu runs the same ESC). Flying Rodeo is running a YGE 150A ESC with custom heatsink (and up to 180mm prop) for ages and doesn’t seem to have an issue.
Mathematically the power requirements aren’t there for a huge ESC unless there a part of the setup that just isn’t running optimally. Therefore I would say that you need to test your setup and figure out where and why its asking for so much more power. If you can figure that out and optimise it, then that would open up cheaper ESC options.
My set-up doesn’t require any big Esc, I never hit 90A, even at full throttle planning on water (not foiling). I do foil between 30 and 40, when riding relaxed even less.
This is the first ESC I killed, one of the mosfet
burned. I guess due to salt water, the ESC was wet.
Maybe Flier 200A was ok, I don’t know. What stopped me from buying Seaking are the AWG12 wires! My wiring is all AWG8 and I made it for a reason, such thin cables will cause heat.
I don’t have info about YEP wires, but seems easily replaceable
I must have mistaken you with someone else thats blown a few ESC’s, sorry.
The YEP 120A comes with 10AWG cables. You just need to take the existing heatsinks off and replace with much more adequate ones.
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The YEP 120A watercooled did its job in my setup for some time until a water hose kinked. Than it dissoldered a motor wire and after repairing it burned several fets. I got no replacement but some credits at HK because the ad says there is overtemp protection.
So it could be, all these watercooled ESCs work correctly, but at some point, when the waterflow stops for some reason, they all burn up.
You could put a temp activated relay on that drives the esc input signal low just in case the esc temp cutoff does not kick in.
I could add a thermistor to my Arduino receiver, I also planned to add an Ammeter to limit max current below 100A, all that is due but not very soon. Having a bunch of capacitors from last esc, I will add those and study where to attach the additional heat sink. Let’s try. Wish will be good, if not… I trashed 100€ only…not 2-300!
From alien, got my order in a week ( france)
I’m not so convinced of the quality of these ESC project, first of all cooling should be underneath, on semiconductor side of fets, not on top of the plastic case, even though this failed probably because one of the mosfet blown. I noticed the motor to run more ruvid, noisy after a stop on which i tilted the board. I headed back immediately, then a couple of jerks and motor turned off. 6 fets burned, shorted, soldering below melted, related controller chip blown as well. There’s a thermistor but was below silicone, don’t know how effective could be. By takin it apart, you could feel how cheap and "chinese"is this Flier ESC
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I’m running one of these on my custom heatsink to switch on the water pump at 40 degrees: KSD 9700 Temperature Switch Thermostat Thermal Protectors. 40 to 150 degrees | eBay
You could always use one that stops the ESC when it hits around 70.
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Does anyone run the seaking submersed since it’s waterproof?
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Modding the YEP 120.Cooling seems a joke. I will add the watercooling from old Flier on the top side and keep controller pcb separated from mosfet.
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Are those pipe at the sides for watercooling? Are they even touching any parts?
They are two straight pipes, soldered to the pcb core, on the side. Ideally they should remove some heat from the inner pcb layer, where the fets are hotter, then there are two thin aluminum plate on top of mosfet on each side. I leave those and add a proper watercooling plate on the opposite side. Other than this and an very complicate programming procedure, YEP esc doesn’t seem too bad. Finger crossed
Thanks for the info. I also consider this ESC or the 180A version because of their programmability and good price.
WE used a few depending on the setup for testing and riding as swapped a lot of setups and part during the testing phase. The one I like the best is not sold on hobbyking anymore, but we used only this from the same brand but it handled 12S without any issues: https://hobbyking.com/de_de/kingkong-5v-3a-ubec.html
Our custom 300A VESC has built in BEC so we have not used them for a while.