Alien 200A 3-16S vs Seaking V3 130A vs Flier 400A

To get rid of any jerky unwanted response I got a ferritis ring and wrapped the ESC receiver cable as many times I could around it, this acts as a filter. Then, no matter for soft or linear setup on Flier software, the throttle was too violent and fast. I definitely solved first buffering the receiver thru an Arduino (find code on diy remote thread), ramping the accelleration, then with a full receiver/transmitter Arduino 2.4GHz.
Makes riding and learning more easy and smooth. Saves the gearbox and reduces current boost when accellerating also

which receiver cable are you talking about? The (-)(+)(signal) between ESC and receiver?

If I only use the ferrous ring, will it resolve the issue enough? I have no intention of adding an arduino as a pass through, thats honestly fucking ridiculous.

Watch you language and keep it friendly. The guy tried to help you with a solution! No need to call it ridiculous. It worked for him.

The idea of the arduino pass-through as @MaB has suggested is to ramp (slow) the acceleration and deceleration to reduce stresses on the gearbox and give a longer life. This is a great idea for some setups, but not necessary for all. I personally do the same thing.

So don’t do it. Wathever…

Let me clarify. I’m not calling your solution ridiculous. Quite the contrary, it’s a good idea.

I’m calling the fact that you have to add such complexity to the system in order to use this ESC effectively.

The hobbywing 130a was smooth and easy out of the box. Why is this flier ESC so complex. And since it is so clunky, why are people recommending it?!

Please don’t tell me that everyone building 36”+ RC boats are also building arduino pass throughs to smooth out their boat’s acceleration.

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sat-be - Any experience you can share with your 420kv motor vs the 500kv motors most are using? Thanks!

Sorry, I haven’t been able to test it as I’m still in the (slow) process of building the pod…

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Hello
I want to program my seaking 130A with a programming card but I do not know what value to set the cutoff voltage and value “timing” , someone has already done it is setting?
thank you for your advice

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After months of experience, I’d love to hear all the fellow builders thoughts about ESCs, joy and failures, suggestions which can help anybody in chosing wisely.
I’m selfish, had to admit… I’m back on the market for a new ESC…I only want to exploit your experience and good deals!!! :wink:

This is where I’m now
Flier 200 watercooling
My Flier 200A 16s died, some of the Fets are burned. I guess that little salt water did shorted some of them and bye bye ESC.
Mosfet burned
I changed my mind about repairing, I need to identify which Mosfet to use, maybe better quality and reinstall the cooling plate attached for real to Fets.

But in the meantime… What do you suggest? I don’t have money to waste, nor I want China shipping time or next ride could be in winter suit!
Decent prices, decent product, Europe based shop?

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/yep-180a-hv-4-14s-marine-brushless-speed-controller-opto.html
Does anybody know about this one? I know HK is not the cheapest nor the better quality but it’s quick and reliable, usually

You could try this guy selling a pretty fancy looking esc. Might still have one.

Very nice VESC, but price is a little over my budget and my enclosure is designed for watercooling, this have thick aluminum case.
Question: how long it takes Alien to deliver, usually?

I think you need to figure out why your setup is burning out all the ESC’s. Most guys with the seaking 130A are getting by just fine! I have a YEP120A with modded heatsink and can even run it for 5 minutes with no watercooling (I also know that wiltech.eu runs the same ESC). Flying Rodeo is running a YGE 150A ESC with custom heatsink (and up to 180mm prop) for ages and doesn’t seem to have an issue.
Mathematically the power requirements aren’t there for a huge ESC unless there a part of the setup that just isn’t running optimally. Therefore I would say that you need to test your setup and figure out where and why its asking for so much more power. If you can figure that out and optimise it, then that would open up cheaper ESC options.

My set-up doesn’t require any big Esc, I never hit 90A, even at full throttle planning on water (not foiling). I do foil between 30 and 40, when riding relaxed even less.
This is the first ESC I killed, one of the mosfet
burned. I guess due to salt water, the ESC was wet.
Maybe Flier 200A was ok, I don’t know. What stopped me from buying Seaking are the AWG12 wires! My wiring is all AWG8 and I made it for a reason, such thin cables will cause heat.
I don’t have info about YEP wires, but seems easily replaceable

I must have mistaken you with someone else thats blown a few ESC’s, sorry.
The YEP 120A comes with 10AWG cables. You just need to take the existing heatsinks off and replace with much more adequate ones.

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Thanks @Jezza, I will try this. I add my dead Flier heatsink also

The YEP 120A watercooled did its job in my setup for some time until a water hose kinked. Than it dissoldered a motor wire and after repairing it burned several fets. I got no replacement but some credits at HK because the ad says there is overtemp protection.
So it could be, all these watercooled ESCs work correctly, but at some point, when the waterflow stops for some reason, they all burn up.

You could put a temp activated relay on that drives the esc input signal low just in case the esc temp cutoff does not kick in.

I could add a thermistor to my Arduino receiver, I also planned to add an Ammeter to limit max current below 100A, all that is due but not very soon. Having a bunch of capacitors from last esc, I will add those and study where to attach the additional heat sink. Let’s try. Wish will be good, if not… I trashed 100€ only…not 2-300!