Using a Hifei Fulcrum Pro+ 300A V2 ESC. Very good efficiency and with USB Data Dongle and WIFI Data Logging. So you can check all data live on conected Cellphone or Computer.
Works really well and we tested it up to about 250A. No problem for it. We even used it with passive cooling up to 140A.
If any anyone interested I sell some of the spare ones…send me a p.m.
I did some testing after reading this article on motor timing, and yes 20 is smoother but my motor runs WAY hotter at 20. I learned that 8 or lower is ideal for cooler safer range for long sessions heat wise, it adds more torque also but if you use reduction gear torque is not an issue for you anyways Rpm drop under load, Rm I - #2 by VeFoil - Propulsion System (Motor, Gears) - FOIL.zone thought it may safe you from overheating a motor
i have a direct drive out runner running in the water, so heat isn’t an issue at all. I was concerned about running smooth, but that was before i realize i had the ramp set up on log… i’ll switch it back to linear or even exponential, and smoothness will be less an issue. i’ll play with timing some more then
i’m out of the water for now building a new board
Hello,
After, burning my Alien 400A ESC, I am now running a Flier 320A and strangely my top speed dropped from 22knots to only 17knots.
This is with the exact same setup, the ESC is programmed with the same option (0 deg timing, 100% power etc…) The starting power feels the same but the not top speed???
Could it be the timing or there is a difference in power between the 400 and the 320 (I am using only 150 max), anyone experienced the same thing?
That is interesting for sure.
I know running 8awg wires alone that are 9ft long with 130A I lose 1% of volts which is 1 x motorKV = less speed, and once I get them to the 4" length with built in battery box I will regain that 1% power when at max power based on wire resistance.
The reason I mention this is because every ESC will have a different amount of resistance, some much more than others I have read and lowering the ESC rating could play a roll in this Clarin.
I run the flier 400A waterproof with watercooling and it barely gets warm to touch. Now, I am running in cold water so its super chilled but not close to cooking it.
Hi @VeFoil, can you please provide more info about waterproofing ESC? How did you do that? With epoxy covering and vacuum? One of my ideas was to also waterproof it and install it within a mast so water goes into it.
I did us comformal coating tonwaterpoof a vesc with my fist prototype.
I also bought liquid rubber i was going to dunk esc is but did do as it would most
Likey overheat.
Waterproofing something to be submerged in water is VERY very difficult and im not going to try. Esc in a mast is dont see fitting but would love to how you do it.
I guess I burned my ESC because of the cooling. My pump turns on with a thermistor at 40c and then it cools but this bring inertia and it could be that the ESC got to hot. Specially, from reading this wonderful forum some ESC have bad contact with the cooling plate. Luckily, it had a slow death and not a fire, in the next weeks I will try to fix it…
@Alexandre Thanks for the advice, I haven’t yet experience with playing with the settings but will do
My issue turned out to be a defective receiver. It likely got damaged in the heat when my hobbywing130A esc caught fire.
Mine is working now but I’m also experiencing what @Mat and @MaB were discussing above, when engaging throttle in the beginning, it jerks hard. Then it becomes smooth.
My ESC settings are on linear and slow acceleration. I bumped timing to 20, but it did not seem to make it any better. I’m running the SSS 56104 500kv motor.