Alien 200A 3-16S vs Seaking V3 130A vs Flier 400A

Using a Hifei Fulcrum Pro+ 300A V2 ESC. Very good efficiency and with USB Data Dongle and WIFI Data Logging. So you can check all data live on conected Cellphone or Computer.
Works really well and we tested it up to about 250A. No problem for it. We even used it with passive cooling up to 140A.
If any anyone interested I sell some of the spare ones…send me a p.m.

Check the data

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Hi, what is the price tag on these beasts?

I think they sell it for 280€

yes, they have very nice data logging features right off the bat, Very PNP.

I did some testing after reading this article on motor timing, and yes 20 is smoother but my motor runs WAY hotter at 20. I learned that 8 or lower is ideal for cooler safer range for long sessions heat wise, it adds more torque also but if you use reduction gear torque is not an issue for you anyways Rpm drop under load, Rm I thought it may safe you from overheating a motor :slight_smile:

i have a direct drive out runner running in the water, so heat isn’t an issue at all. I was concerned about running smooth, but that was before i realize i had the ramp set up on log… i’ll switch it back to linear or even exponential, and smoothness will be less an issue. i’ll play with timing some more then
i’m out of the water for now building a new board :slight_smile:

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After, burning my Alien 400A ESC, I am now running a Flier 320A and strangely my top speed dropped from 22knots to only 17knots.
This is with the exact same setup, the ESC is programmed with the same option (0 deg timing, 100% power etc…) The starting power feels the same but the not top speed???
Could it be the timing or there is a difference in power between the 400 and the 320 (I am using only 150 max), anyone experienced the same thing?

That is interesting for sure.
I know running 8awg wires alone that are 9ft long with 130A I lose 1% of volts which is 1 x motorKV = less speed, and once I get them to the 4" length with built in battery box I will regain that 1% power when at max power based on wire resistance.

The reason I mention this is because every ESC will have a different amount of resistance, some much more than others I have read and lowering the ESC rating could play a roll in this Clarin.

I run the flier 400A waterproof with watercooling and it barely gets warm to touch. Now, I am running in cold water so its super chilled but not close to cooking it.

How did you cook a 400A?

“only 150A” :wink:

on top of my mind:

  • 100% throttle calibration check?
  • as far i have read: same step up , different esc= same rpm but not the same power consumption (the 320a needs more and the battery don’t follow?)
  • your motor is D or Y winding ? adding timing will move the power band on the right =more top speed
  • bad soldering …

same set up ,same rpm but +30% with another esc …

Hi @VeFoil, can you please provide more info about waterproofing ESC? How did you do that? With epoxy covering and vacuum? One of my ideas was to also waterproof it and install it within a mast so water goes into it.

Any info will be appreciated!

I believe it comes waterproof (± IP67) from factory, you have this kind of product:

but why make it complicated? you want it waterproof but water has to cool it …

do it like “fliteboard” : mast with a alloy plate , on top a ip68 box with the esc, a good cables glands and the battery box not to far

I did us comformal coating tonwaterpoof a vesc with my fist prototype.

I also bought liquid rubber i was going to dunk esc is but did do as it would most
Likey overheat.

Waterproofing something to be submerged in water is VERY very difficult and im not going to try. Esc in a mast is dont see fitting but would love to how you do it.

I use the Hifi 300A pro ESC it looks identical to your Jeti spin Pro 300 ESC
and have not had any problems

This is not my video ( i wish) , heifi is swordfish i use the 200X 8s , so far so good , datalogging is very interesting

I guess I burned my ESC because of the cooling. My pump turns on with a thermistor at 40c and then it cools but this bring inertia and it could be that the ESC got to hot. Specially, from reading this wonderful forum some ESC have bad contact with the cooling plate. Luckily, it had a slow death and not a fire, in the next weeks I will try to fix it…

@Alexandre Thanks for the advice, I haven’t yet experience with playing with the settings but will do

I have the 400A Flier ESC that @VeFoil recommended.

I’m getting the same 10 chimes every 10 seconds and no response from the ESC.

Does anyone know what the solution is?

I’m running 12s and have a 5v BEC connected to the receiver

Not sure, but if you don’t have your remote paired with receiver?
I think it will keep beeping until its paired

it is paired, not sure what is going on causing it to behave this way…

Just email she replies very quickly.

My issue turned out to be a defective receiver. It likely got damaged in the heat when my hobbywing130A esc caught fire.

Mine is working now but I’m also experiencing what @Mat and @MaB were discussing above, when engaging throttle in the beginning, it jerks hard. Then it becomes smooth.

My ESC settings are on linear and slow acceleration. I bumped timing to 20, but it did not seem to make it any better. I’m running the SSS 56104 500kv motor.