Am I on track? - electronics assembly


With my very limited knowledge and all the posts I read, I came up with this design. I am wondering if I am on track, if there are errors or something I am missing.

SSS 56123 500KV
Maximum Amps: 188A.
Maximum voltage: 50V.

SeaKing-130A-HV (discontinued)
Output: Continuous current 130A, burst current 180A.
Input: 15-36 cells NiMH/NiCd or 5-12 cells LiPo.
No Built-in BEC.

Planning on having 4 x 3S in series

3S Lipo-Battery 6750 mah 100C

UBEC-15A External BEC DC Voltage Regulator Support 6S-12S 15A Output

I am planning on using an eskate one then waterproofing if in the future.
I found ip67 potentiometers, but I dont have any ideas on how to incorporate them to the board for now. (could I just replace the hall sensor with one?)

Thanks a lot!

With this Motor you would need a gear box 1:4 or 1:5. For direct drive you either need a 63100 outrunner waterproofed with epoxy or a 65161 inrunner 100 or better 120KV. The Capacity of the lipos is too small, if you chose Lipos, better take 2x16000mah 6S or 2x20000mAh 6S. Better build a LiIon Pack 2x7 or 2x6s, you can still skip bms and charge them with an RC charger. Safer, more charging cycles and you can build it to your needs (capacity and voltage).
Many buildes swapped their ESCs with vesc, Chinese 75200, Trampa 100/250, 75300 or A200Sv3, all work.

If you wand a cheap 12S bldc esc, this one should work:
US $88.00 | 1PCS Flycolor FlyDragon 150A ESC 5-12S HV OPTO for RC hobby model aircraft helicopter electronic speed controll For JP EDF motor

Thank you very much for all the info.

I am picking up a project that was started 3 years ago. I already have the motor and ESC. I was planning on building a battery down the line, but Ill look for higher capacity ones right away for my testing phase thank you!

Could I do it this way then:

Having in series 2 packs of 2 x 6s 10000mAh?

And at some point there is the weight and space, but could I even put in series 10 packs of 2x6s? (Building with 18650 would be better, but that is for another time)

Yes, they should give you around 10-15 minutes on the foil, depending on the consuption of your system.

I would not use any of the things you are using!

For battery, I would go Li-Ion over LiPo. For ESC I would use a VESC for the extremely old Sea King. For motor I would go with a Flipsky/Maytech/etc brand motor. For Remote I would go with Maytech or Flipsky VX3. Your switch mechanism won’t work the way you want so that’s not good implementation.

I think 50V is good and my DIY has 120A so I think anywhere in that range is fine. Overall I would just stay away from the old technology of 2017.

Thanks for the heads up!
Yes those were bought a while ago.
By curiosity, why would that remote not work?