I plan to build something like this. Keeping it simple. I would steer with my paddle. I think that will work.
I already have a 65161 120KV left over from my 3rd e-foil build.
I modeled this part to be screwed to the Fwd.end of the motor. I printed it with 0 fill.
Then I drilled 3 holes in the flat side. I pushed at least a hundred strands of carbon fiber inside using tweezers . Then I filled the part with epoxy.
NOTE: When I first did this core filling. It was a warm day. the epoxy heats up and melted the PLA part. So you need to keep it cool while its curing.
The 4 hex head screws you see are just sitting in the holes. It got kind of messy… I had to do some cleaning up of the part when it hardened. Lacquer thinner seem to clean up epoxy good.
Photo shows the piece I plan to screw to the bottom of the kayak. I made the bond between the round and flat piece using a product called Alumiweld rods. It was very easy to use, seems to work great. I Used MAP gas to heat the pieces up.
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It’s easier to soak the carbon fiber in epox y first and than tweezer them in. This worked for me pretty well
It was easy to get those carbon strands in the holes. I don’t really know that they got fully saturated with epoxy… So your method might be better. I think the epoxy was finding its way through the pores of the printed plastic in spots until it cured. Anyhow it seems very strong.
I opened up the motor and gave it a generous coat of Corrosion X. Then poured the excess out.
I put some petroleum jelly on the o-ring surface.
When reinstalling the screws. take them all down gradually. They are easy to strip, if you try to draw down the top to quickly.
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What’s this ? Can you share a link please ?
I don’t think @Flightjunkie realize how much people are using corrosionX today mainly because of him 
(yes yes me included ).
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P
I have used Petroleum Jelly to help seal gaskets on several things, It spreads out like gasket sealer, never hardens.
Yep, flightjunkie got me hooked on the corrosion X. Its just a precaution, My motor has been working good for a couple years.
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Things were going good . I implemented several changes to my original design. Just 1 pin holds the motor. So its a quick install. Unfortunately there was no easy way to get the pin back out of the hole. So I use a magnet to pull the pin. There is also a hole in the forward end of the assembly to take ESC cooling water in, and another hole to let ESC cooling water out. The last photo shows behind the seat how the cooling water and wires enter the Kayak.
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Made a lot of progress this week. My Alumaweld weld that I thought was so good failed. So I TIG welded it. I usually make a mess when TIG weld aluminum. But it came out OK.
I leaked tested/ and fixed leaks on electrical enclosure, Water proofed the remote control and added flotation. I melted vasleen and filled all the cavities. Made a very crude E-stop switch. If for some reason I need to disconnect the battery in a emergency I just pull on a rope. That will pull the battery connection open.
I took it out on the water this afternoon, The lake was like glass. I carry two 7S x12P Batteries that I normally use with my E-foil.
My plan is to run the Kayak on just one of the batteries 7S bats until drained , Then switch to the other.
I am running a Mayte ESK8 version control. It lets you program 3 speeds.
So I had Speed 1 set at 30%, I was moving about the same speed I would if I were paddling almost my fastest. I was only drawing about 6 Amps. My total battery capacity 2 bats/ each is 36 Ah. I could run all day!!! Kayaks are very efficient at slow speeds.
At speed 100% it pulled about 70 Amps, The bow raised. It did not get on plane. I don’t plan to use it like that.
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Could you get it on plane with the full 14s? should be more efficient (& more fun 
)
What Kayak is this?
I think I could get on plane. I might eventually try it. For now my plan is to cover long distances.
Another issue is my Flipski VESC is only rated for 12S. I have been warned by several people on this forum not to try it.
The Kayak is a Perception brand.
