How do you access the battery or charge connections?
Not fully solved that yet^^ the box I used has a lid, but it is not made to be fully waterproof without silicon gluing+4screws.
I need to make something similar as my previous military box with a deep seal and a latch.
For initial tests I used a latex Glove and tape over the plastic lid.
Other vidéo with first attempt AT catching waves
working on the system updates for spring, and a new custom board…
I ordered stuff to prepare a second system, in the foil drive v1 BOX 100MM high version
this time.
it is too much work to work on custom box, even if cooling is much better with alu box!
I will have have to go 6S4P or salvage cells to go with a shape of battery that fits the box, as my ebike recut 8S4P HAVE 60° and 3CELL HIGH.
makerbase 60100
MAYTECH RECEIVER
6484
GOAL is to get both systems runing and reliable.
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Version 57 
box will fit 7S4P and the rest of the system fine. more cutting, wiring, soldering on the way.
I will need to work on the prop efficiency some more to make it.
but it should be fairly easy to replicate for friends and family. Got 2 of those BOX already 
will probably build one of the two for my dad
It is not normal to use 12 AWG cable as power cable. Unless, of course, your goal is to get rid of your father.
I have 10 sessions on this cable and have been building Li-ion batteries and ebikes since 2008. I know what I am doing, thanks 
Sure, but don’t they get pretty hot? I’m curious to how many watts it might be in difference to 10AWG, which i consider to be more of an appropriately sized cable. Not hard to calculate but it’ll have to wait, i’m going drinking soon 
Well my system is set to max 65A battery.
When foiling, I am at 20-30A battery
Anything more than 50A battery constant I would use a bigger cable, but the duty cycle and time needed to empty the battery has an impact for sure. Silicon wires can handle a lot of temperature, the limit is desoldering of the connectors.
12 awg silicon, can handle more current than a XT90, here is one of those at 20A discharge for 90 minutes.
I crank my car 2.5Lt on Ethanol on 4s4p with 12awg cables. Wires get hot? yes. Starts the car? yes.
Would I reccomend that to anyone? NO.
I take my risks with my knowleage and past failures
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Let’s estimate that at 25A battery current consumption you’re at half max speed, estimated duty cycle 50%, motor current is then 50A, six step commutation gets a “cable duty cycle” of 50% so heating is comparable to DC 25A, relative heating is proportional to current squared, 625/400 so there’ll be roughly 60% more heat that needs to be cooled than in your measurement in the pic.
I guess if it works, it works. It’s a bit too hot for me though🥵
Got closeure today, on different topics.
First, I could ride two batteries with the new box, and 7s works for me.
I got phase,amps set to 120A, and lvc end to 2.85v per cell.
I could hit 55A battery.
Thermal perf was worse than with the water directly cooling the exterior of the alu box, but enough for pretty much continuous e-foiling under 50-60% throttle.
Also went back to the 42 cm stab for tests, and it also works better than when I used it las time due to the board shim and better skills.
For surfing I will go with the small stab, and the big one for pump foil.
Main issue and fun killer was cavitation due to bad taping of the cables. As I use the setup for light efoil, I run the motor quite low.
The triple cable of the maytech has a lot of drag and if I don’t get a good taping, I really feel the difference. Need to work on that next.
Also first time back on this fone board, the prototype fanatic one works much better, with easier get on plane, and more centered mass.
You’re a bit further to the front of the board than i’m used to seeing, does the stab/wing combination match well?
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It is better with the 48 cm stab. I already have a 5 degree shim under the foil.
I feel like something is not right with this board, so efficiency is not great. I should have back feet over the mast, as it is with the fanatic dw I modded.
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Testing something out of tpu for the cables.
Hope I can solve this ongoing topic and get peak efficiency !
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First test was a fail, I extruded the profile the wrong way.
Second test seems interesting.
The mt60 barely fits the hole with the tpu, but overall it should work.
Maybe longer to install than tape 
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After Many hours of unmonitored printing by 25mm sections
Processing: IMG_20240122_155854965.jpg…
Also received the 60100 vesc, seems like a good thermal design, much
Better than maytech. Bigger cables 8awg vs 12 awg on the maytech
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Did you ever consider trying something like @Mantafoils has done for their Takeoff assist? They have the motor cables separated in a “trailing mast.” Might be easier than sliding all the 25mm sections down the mast.
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I take the servo cable from the 75200 and connect it to the 60100 - nothing works, but for some reason the relay on the Maytech receiver clicks. This is because they changed the pinout to a mirror one. When asked for what purpose, Makerbase support answered, these controllers were developed by different teams.
I agree that this controller is more powerful than the Maytech. But Makerbase and reliability are completely different things. I have burned out 4 controllers and three of them for no apparent reason.
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