V = Board volume. At the beginning, you need a board that floats (safer in case of failure and faster learning curve) = (your weight in kg + 30 litres) x 1.1 for board nose bevel compensation (1).
Ex: for sbdy who weights 80 kg -> board vol = 110 x 1.1 = 121 litres. Then the volume can go down depending on riding skills and confidence in gear.
P = Mast position : centre of mast at 20% of board length measured from board rear.
Board dimensions: L x W x T = V (so parametric). The shorter, the more manoeuvrable …
L = Board length: Lmin = somewhere between your chin height up to your own size
W = Board width: The largest value between Wmin1 and Wmin2 where:
Wmin1 = distance between your shoulders + 10 cm (comfort criterion)
Wmin2 = If you decide to insert a waterproof box inside your board = box width + 20cm that is Box width + 10cm on each side (board structural resistance criterion)
T = board thickness = V / (L x W)
Board shape: cannot be more simple Top surface = flat surface Bottom surface = flat surface (a V on the rear third seems to make the board stick to the water surface) Board edges: small radius (20% of T the board thickness) to keep the volume. Avoid lengthwise bevels on bottom surface like kitefoil boards that make the board more unstable. Board scoop (curved nose up when board seen sideways) : none needed but there must be a bevel to make water touchdowns more friendly :
Length of bottom surface = 0.8 x length of top surface.
(1) This 10% of board volume loss has been compensated above with the 1.1 factor in the volume determination.
Example for a comfortable ride with waterproof box on top of board.
John 75kg, 1.80 m, shoulders’ width 60cm (0.6m)
V = (75 + 30) x 1.1 = 116 L= 0.116m3
W = 70 cm = 0.7m
T = 0.116 / (1.8 x 0.70) = 0.092 = 9.2 cm
Nose bevel: board top length = John’s height = 1.8 m
Board bottom length = 1.8 x 0.8 = 1.44m
For a comfortable ride with waterproof box inside the board (box dim = 30 x 20 x 10cm = 6 L)
To preserve board structural strength, you have to add a minimum of 2.5 (1") cm of EPS foam under the box.
So new board thickness = Box thickness + 2.5cm. (1")
In the above example, new T = 10 + 2.5 = 12.5 cm
New board volume = (1.8 x .7 x 0.125) / 1.1 = 143 L - 6 L (box volume) = 137 L with nose bevel (hence /1.1)
So adding a 6L waterproof box adds 21L to original board configuration with box on top.
I’m looking for some input on which board would be best to repurpose for an efoil board. There aren’t any surfboards for sale around where I live and I don’t want to build a custom board until this winter. My options are to buy a used wakesurf board (66"x23"x1.75") or I can get a used windsurf board (~9+ feet). I would prefer to buy the wakesurf board but I’m not sure how much of a pain it is to have to always start laying down due to how thin it is. On the contrary, my concern with the windsurf board is that the weight and length will make it clumsy to ride. Any input/ thoughts would be appreciated.
it is depending on your weight, skill, foil wing , needs to put the battery inside the board…
i learned with a tamuka v100, which is a large wing i beleive, the weight is 130kg all included with a sup board 98L (244x77X10), i took me about 4H with some wakeboard skill to be up
first start was hard, now is easy, stability is ok with 70cm wide i would prefere 80, lengh (244) is to long espacilly with wind BUT it assure you smooth landing , i’d never fall over when touching the water
i use this board because it was cheap and sold close to where i live, i really wanted to get on the water, then i think i will never make it and i will need a 150L board, then i was up so i want a smaller board to carry in my car, then i got speed and crashes (sideway), and i think it 's nice with the lenght that the noise of the board doesn’t go down to deep in the water, so i am keeping my board like that this year
so i guess there is not ONE board, and you will change your mind when you ride it
Thank you for the feed back. I’m new to foiling but I have experience in other water spots. I too will be using a takuma wing (a Chinese clone of one). I was planning on just strapping the electronics to the top while I learn. I just want a board to learn on for a few months before I figure out what I like and build custom. From your response it sounds like my best option will be to choose a small wind surfboard rather than using wakesurf. Thanks!
What are you guys using to attach the foil to a board that wasn’t built for a foil? I’ve been looking at the stick on “Foilmount” but wondering if there are any other options.
I am a kite foiler for about 3 years. I am interested in eFoil for windless days. Volume and width will allow for floating and planing on the water prior to flying the foil and when recovering from “touchdown”. A wider nose (not pulled in) is better for planing of course. Length is probably the least important dimension. Length does not need to be much greater than where feet will be placed. The comment about enough flotation for paddling back to shore in an ‘emergency’ is an important point to consider.
While not directly relevant, my current kite foiling board has volume 31L, surface area 6800 cm^2, length 152 cm and width 53,3 cm. It is a Liquid Force Spacke Pickle (kiteboard) with tracked added. This board is about 30-45 cm longer than needed (and has more volume than needed… but I like the volume for switching my feet by touchdown jibe). I use a 94cm hollow carbon fiber mast, a hollow carbon fuselage and Liquid Force Impulse wings with surface area (front) ~1200cm^2. Many of my friends are riding on boards as short as 80 cm long and 2.5 cm or less thick (I believe). These are just a platform for the feet and do not float… but I illustrates the point that when “on foil” the only benefit of the board is a place to put ones feet. I know some of this is not relevant since you need the foil for electronics etc.
Hi VeFoil,
In picture board-11, down the center line, what is the purpose/function of the narrower divinycell/PVC block behind the block that will accommodate the foil track boxes? Is it for leash plug on deck?
Thanks,
liv2surf
Of course it was for a center fin. So I guess it was going to be for a box for the ‘large SUP fin’. If board was being used for jet foiling, I don’t see how the empty box would get in the way. The board looks great!
Your right it would be fine empty, there was some confusion about the fin with the factory and they finished the board graphics without putting in that fin box so we just left it as (no center fin) for this prototype to keep things moving forward as we would be either efoiling or jet surfing with the board. Its got 4 other fins boxes already.
How far back did you put the mastmount on the board? I´ve heard people talking about 48 cm from the back of the board to the middle of the foilmount.
Center of gravity is bit front of the middle on front wing (what I´ve heard) And knowing that I can see that it would be about 20 cm in front of the middle of the mast of my LF kite foil.
So the middle of my stance would be 68 cm from the back of the board. Would not that be to far forward? Also the prop i pushing the nose up on the board.
When I measured on images of Lifts efoil board I got it to about 27 cm from the back to the middle of the mast.
Yeah on windsurfing foils I think they´ve made it compatible as so you could use it on a board with a standard tuttle or deep tuttlebox. I will try to measure my friends windsurfing foil with my kite foils and see if distance between the mast and the front wing is the same. I know that my friends fuselage is super long compared with my Moses Vorace.
You’re right, the windsurfing foils are about 100mm further forward of the mast. Thats the difference between the naish windsurf foil and the SUP foil. Same year.
