Exactly this.
The other option could be the adapter from mast to board is not perfectly flat and once tensioned is pulling that corner up.
Well that is good news,
Good luck
Watch the video above as posted by Kian.
I watched this about 6 months ago just prior to making board 2. I was surprised its only a plastic box epoxied in .
This is what it looks like to me anyway.
Thanks for your suggestion to watch the video but I already have and itâs not what I requested from @maninjo so doesnât help me much.
The Fliteboard board is the basis for quite a few builds - myself included so I have a vested interest in knowing how the board was put together in the first place.
Photos of the area that the box fits in would be helpful to a number of us as this type of box tearout could happen to any of us during a grounding etc.
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Thanks for all the input!
I will try to cover some questions and will share some more photos.
@Strongarm suggested, that my screws could be too long. I think itâs a valid concern but according to my measurements I still have about two millimeters of space. Thatâs probably at the lower end of the recommended spectrum, I might shorten the screws in the future.
Here are some pictures:
The adapter plate is more or less flush with the board. I am able to screws the screw below that point plus I also always use a nylon washer. So there definitely must be a little space.
Another thing @Jezza suggested, is the adapter plate not being perfectly flat. I checked the flatness with the flat side of a level and I can see no gap, meaning it is dead flat.
I also tried to widen the gap to have a look underneath. But I could not see anything.
Than I mounted the mast again and started bending it vigorously like a couple of times before. Here is the video. At the end of the video a loud crack is hearable. It might be that I broke it even further, but still, the crack did not widen and I was not able to see the fiber liftingâŚ
I bought some Resin, type L285 and the hardener H285. @Raul suggested it to me. Thanks! I will try to get it under the crack and glue it back like that. Do you guys think that that could be enough? Or should I rather take the whole mastbox out and put some more layers of fiber glass on top?
My opinion for what itâs worth is to fix it right the first time. If it was me I would remove it and then use good FG techniques to get it in solid so you have confidence it in it.
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There are shots in the video where you can pause and see right into the board where it mounts. I was also interested because I have just built a new board based off the shape of Fliteboard, down to even buying the deck pad and latches.
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My thoughts are with @Foilguy, I would remove it and re epoxy it back in. not sure it you have done this type of work but sand all around to rough up the current surface to improve adhesion. Also donât use fibreglass get some carbon fibre cloth. When sanding USE a face Mask !!. The previous video above is a good example of how to fix. I am sure collectively we could all come up with a full process to lead you through doing this if you are un-sure. Itâs not hard just a lot of prep and sanding afterwards.
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I would say that this is a doable but not easy repair for a first time glasser. So many things that can go wrong if you donât know what youâre doing. Therefore it would probably be better to leave it to a shop.
The main problem is that the interface is so tight, just glueing the box in wonât work - the repair wonât be as strong as the original with the fractured / imperfect surfaces. There needs to be reinforcement layers on the bottom of the board and the flange that you glass in is quite small.
Iâm surprised this design works from the beginning, i guess itâs mainly due to them using a really heavy density foam around the box.
BTW, isnât resin L285 a elevated temp post cure epoxy? If so, maybe not the best for this application as it will need the post-curing to reach full strength.
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Exactly this. If youâve never glassed before get it done professionally. The interface from mast too board is the most stressed part of the board and if done wrong risks all you electronics.
Also please never stand on the board and yank the mast around again. Thatâs just asking for more damage which you have caused somewhere.
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The video was set to âunlistedâ. I set it to public now.
Yes, I read after buying as well that it needs 55°C for 15h to bond strongly. Might have to send it back. I will contact a few shops now and ask what they will charge for a repairâŚ
Marcel. If you ever find the correct color code of the board, then please let me know! I have the same color and got some small dings in my board that I would like to get fixed.
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I assume youâre calling/looking for surf repair shops to work on this, which I think is a good idea.
You could also try looking for carbon bike repair as another option. In the world of cycling carbon bike frames can also get repaired (Iâve had this done on one of my bikes). The repairs they can do are impressive and usually these guys are quite talented
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Another option is to buy a 1-2mm carbon plate.
And then cut it to the right shape, sand both the board and the carbon plate and glue it together with epoxy.
Iâve done the same with my Gong board cause I didnât trust their build quality around the rails.
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I will let you know if I will find it. Thatâs probably why they sell soft top boards. I I had the chance to choose again, I would choose this option, seems way more scratch and dentproof 
Thats a big decesion how to repair that. If you could remove the box without damaging the box then re-installing with new epoxy in the space woul be good. A small patch
of carbon as in the video too but not as big as that would be ok IMO.
However I would consider drilling some 3mm holes on the outside perimeter of the bad corner and down the two sides and inject epoxy. Then press it flush. Might work might not.
Good luck I feel your pain.
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I got in touch with a company that repairs Fliteboards here in Germany, they say it will cost 600⏠for the repair. Thatâs a lot of money I donât really want to spend. I am thinking about doing it myself, with the help of you guys. I have never glassed before though.
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What type of resin would I need? The stuff I bought will be send back, I donât have an oven thatâs big enough for my fliteboard to bake it at 60°Cđ
But maybe I might be able to achieve this kind of temperature in a car, parked in the sun. But not for 15h 