Broken motor do any of you know how to fix if

Hi Efoil builder

Thanks for a nice forum, I have read so many useful tips and tracks from you, thanks for that.

I have buy the flipsky 65161 motor and there’s vecs, which work ok in the beginning, but on a ride last week the motor stop working while I was surfing and now I can not fix it.
I have upload a movie of the problem on YouTube here.

So I have two questions, do any of you know how to fix it? Is the motor complete broken.
And if I have to buy a new motor, is this motor a good reliable motor or which one should I buy?

Sensorless motor cannot have a lot of faults. Hard to tell from your video but it seems to be running roughly, is it the same when turning by hand?

Could be your bearings are broken, easy to fix
Could be your windings burnt, difficult
Could be a problem with your esc
Could be a problem with your remote

Are you sure it’s the Motor. I had an issue, where my motor did something similar. It would shudder really bad, then get really hot after a few minutes. I took the motor apart and everything looked fine. It turned out to be a bad ESC. I replaced my ESC and everything worked fine.

If you have access to another ESC or Motor. Try to trouble shoot with the other parts. I have the same motor and I’m using the Fliers 400A ESC.

Thanks Larsb and Sean

I have a spare ESC one which I try, but still same problem.
I take the motor apart and the bearing seam fine.
I don’t think it is the remote as the motor is working sometime, it always have some problem when I start the motor, it make these strange noise and than the motor start running smoothly. But now it will not run at all.
I have read on the homepage that the standard firmware on the ESC Maybe need a new firmware for slower resolution, could that be the problem?

This sounds like 1 phase on the motor is missing. Check the 3 wires between motor and controller

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The is a high probability that the windings are fried. The only way I can think of to check that is disconnecting the phase computation and then checking if there’s a leak from one phase to another.

And before that check if there’s a leak from the phase to the body of the motor.

If this would be the reason, the esc would be damaged immediately.

Actually no. I have several motors with fried phases witch will attempt to spin in a similar way. They do produce a nonsense detection results though. So if your detection numbers make no sense that’s another hint to a burnt motor

Phase to phase will always have connection but phases connection to body/screws/axle will mess with the driving of the motor. In best case poor performance, in worst case fried ESC.

A simple isolation test with a DMM will tell you if this is the case. It’s is a common fault for cheap motors

Hi all

Thanks for the help.

I checked the wire down to the motor and they seams fine. I have measure the voltage in every wire down to the motor from ESC and there was 16 volt, and I was running with 48 volt. So I think that should be correct.

Larsb how can I make a simple isolated test with a DMM? Can I measure directly inside the wire in the motor?

Could the problem be the remote, a measure the voltage on the signal wire going from 2 to 3 voltage. Is that correct?

Just because I couldn’t wait have I buy a new motor, so I hope to be happy flying again soon.

Best Peter.

Most dmms have isolation test mode, disconnect motor phases, set this mode and fix one probe to first phase connector and then with the other probe to motor casing, screws and axle, stator steel also if you have motor opened.

Do this for all three phase connections, any signal will mean your motor winding is busted and will need rewinding. No signals, it’s ok and fault is elsewhere.