I get 1h30min run time and average 20 miles on this battery. No noticable voltage drop.
Really clean build, do you have a link to that battery box your using?
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ā¦ and to anybdy;
How and with what to replace a blown fuse? Soldering ?
For an 12s 10p, what price should I expect? I am a bit lost with the 18650, the 18650 30q are maybe on the limit with their 20a discharge on 10p packā¦ But they are already expensive (18$ here and 10$ on Bangggood)
If I built it would be 2x 6s 10p and I use my RC hobby charger.
Cross that hurdle if it were ever to happen.
How much power/amps do you need to tow your friend?
How much amp do you usually need when foiling and starting?
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Thanks mate!
Hereās the link to the case:
https://www.bopla.de/gehaeusetechnik/product/euromas-polyester/gehaeuse-8/p-339.html
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I would strip of the nickel band of the complete row, change the cell and weld a new nickel band over it.
A really nice battery case, with nice inner dimensions to accommodate a 14s14p setup : 342 x 342 x H79.8 (70.8 + 20 - 5 - 6)
How much is it sold (no visible price) ?
IP 66 protection: did/will you do sthg to improve that a bit ?
Yeah, Iāve done quite some research to find a case that would both accommodate a 14S14P Setup or more and fits in the cavityā¦
The actual price is around 200ā¬, I havenāt done any additional waterproofing. But Iāve submerged the finished case without battery for 30 mins under 50cm water and no drop inside!
For the next box, consider asking your buddy with the CNC to machine an Isogrid in the 1/2" acrylic to remove a lot of weight at little cost of strength.
What kind of plugs are these? Do you happen to have a link? Thanks
Hey guys I really like your cell packs,
are there any guys from austria who can assemble such a 18650 pack for me that fits into those cases?
Batterybox
And which smart BMS do you think works best? Dali or maybe ANT BMS?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7PGLFgkdf4&t=2s&ab_channel=DamianRene!
I have been thinking about a SPC (safe parallel connection) video that I saw on the eskate builders page and at first I loved it and I thought it was genius! But now Iām thinking it has some issuesā¦
I made a fake battery pack out of much safer AAAās showing the series and parallel connections. My understanding is that the whole point of the design is to protect against internally shorted cells so I replaced one of the cells with a wire. In theory SPC is supposed to solve this problem by braking the small Nickle strip āfuseā and keeping the battery safe but it does nothing about the series connection on the + and - sides of the dead cell. I believe this will cause an imbalance of voltage between the series cells. The upper right cell would be at lets say 10.8V if these were Lion and the upper left cell would be at 7.2v. I think the 10.8v cell will act almost like a charger and push a missive amount of current into the 7.2v cell to try and equalize the voltage. this will then cause the next parallel āfuseā to brake up the line. I think this will continue to happen going up the battery pack until the line of series cells with the dead cell is completely severed from the pack? Or the next fuse doesnāt blow and it over charges the cell above the dead one causing a fire?
Also how would you terminate the ends of the pack to your bus bars? That canāt be made out of fuses or it just will instantly fail when you use the pack for the first time.
Does anyone else know what Iām talking about this has been driving me crazy?
The batteries shocked me!!!
After you did this test - how did you get the lid off? The 3m tape is sticky but not permanent?
Also, did you fasten the cells into the case in anyway or does the sheer weight of the battery pack mean they donāt move around very much?
Thanks!