Swedish rifle case build

We need a trial without duct :smiley:
What’s your weight?

Sure thing I will remove the duct tomorrow and make sure the battery is a 100% full.

I Should add that when holding the propeller in water but keeping the efoil in the dock it does not seem to generate that much power.

I am a small guy, only like 63 kg so that should not be a problem. Sure my frame inside the board is welded from steel and a bit heavy but that shouldnt make a difference in this case

Weightwise you are good, I’m 125 kg with all the gear and board but run a 110cm board. Sanding it with 400 grit sandpaper made a noticeable difference in how easy it is to get on foil. That’s how much the drag counts and the duct will remove static thrust also. Let’s hope for tomorrow!

I am about the same weight as you. My board has the same motor/ESC and I previously also had a 14S pack on it. When I did a dock test I sat on the board and it could almost lift me up when I gave it enough power. Did you feel the board/case trying to lift you up when you did the dock test?

Oh wow even sanding maze that much of a difference!? For sure I will remove the duct.

I can see why rifle cases is a bad board but it is so practical and tempting for a first time builder and heavier people made those work (although with professional masts/wings) :wink:

If compared to a small outboard engine like a 5hp this 6000w/8hp motor seems way way weaker with these settings.

here’s a thread where removing the duct made all the difference:

Power during starts is normally more like 3kW with an ok setup

These aren’t really 6kW motors either but can take some bursts of high power.

I put the board on the dock and let the propeller be in the water. The pushing power didnt seem that hard to be honest. Sure the tip of the board lifted up from the dock but doubt it would lift me.

I started out building a rifle case – you are not alone brother :grinning:

You mentioned a Flight propeller but those photos seem to show the white bundled prop that comes with the Flipsky motor.

My vote is it’s likely the duct. Lot of people have tried running the Flite prop inside a duct and had the “I can’t get going” issue.

Sorry for the confusion on that one. The picture was taken the day before I installed the Flite prop.

I will try without it today :slightly_smiling_face: also realized that the four large holes in the front, where the threaded rods for the motor mount, are creating a lot of drag. Gonna tape over those to try at least, then on to V2 with Gong mast even if this would fly.

Is this propeller extra bad together with a duct? Larsb mentioned something about losing static thrust with a duct

Did you also purchase a Gong foil set with the mast. If so please tell us what that is.

The Flite prop by itself is great. However there have been multiple threads here where it was found that running it in a 3D printed duct has created a problem, remove the duct and performance improved. I myself have experienced this.

Fliteboard runs the prop inside its own proprietary duct and it works. Not sure what that secret sauce is or whether they sell the duct or if it would essily mount on a third party motor.

As @Larsb mentioned it is questionable if a duct adds much to the safety anyway😀

I bought a Gong wing foil X-over ALU (large) with a 75cm V2 mast.

I my Gong build later on I think i will experiment with different propellers/ducts if nothing else because its fun. My duct today is not optimized at all and probably creates a ton of drag
Much better with ducts with no fuselage support I guess.

Just seems so scary to have no duct if I were to but my feet close to the propeller at start up but I will try that today. When foiling and falling the break in the motor will kick in so not so scarred of that (If I get foiling haha)
Hope my thick wet suit boots will save at least one toe :stuck_out_tongue:

I see it like this: With duct you have made a confined blender that forcefully sucks things to the blade chopping area.

Without duct you will have the same suction but the finger, toe etc gets thrown out by the first hit. With the flite propeller - that is actually not sharp - i would dare to purposely put a neopren clad finger in the propeller. Toes, wouldn’t worry. Face, duct might actually be useful if it doesn’t break off, which it probably will since board is falling on you with force if you get your face on the prop

I am much more worried about the wing and stabiliser. The YPRA wing and Veloce stab i have could easily cut your face off. I round off the tips on every wing i have but it’s still a risk

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If you think about it that really isn’t even possible.

The prop is well below the surface and most if not all of your body is either on top or parallel to the top of the board :grinning:

I hear you but at the same time it seems all commercial efoils are using ducts. I understand they might have to because their product needs to be ultra safe, but still it feels a bit scary without one :stuck_out_tongue: at least you have convinced me to try without the duct.

With the Gong build V2 I might afford the extra drag from different experimental ducts but certainly not with this 3D-printed setup haha

More worried about this, 25kg board with a foil dropping on you at speed.
IMG_2120



But to each his own, as long as you can fly then duct or no duct is only a matter of a bit lower speed and range.

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Tried without the duct and with tape over the holes in the nose cone. Maybe a tiny bit faster and it felt like it wanted to lift out of the water a little bit. Gonna try with the 3d-printed no duct adaptor between the propeller and motor to further reduce drag. Then I am also gonna sand of some unnessecary parts sticking out from under the board.

Pretty sure I am not gonna get this 3D-printed setup flying and that is totally OK. It was a fun long shot to begin with and I learnt a lot :wink:

But us there anything else I could do in the VESC to gain more power before I begin with the Gong V2?

you should try it in water and get some logs or screenshots to see if the program puts out what it’s supposed to before moving on. if you get less than 3kW input power then there are things to update.