Yes sir! At 4.5" thick its asking for an electronics cavity to be cut. Learning from past projects, don’t ever make your version 1 complicated. Keep it as simple as possible! I’m using Velcro to secure the battery and ESC enclosures.
Simplicity should not come at the expense of safety! I am using an EL-AN200 200A fuse able to prevent flashover up to 58V DC. The fuse should be the weakest point in the system by design. I think with a fuse of this size the Li-Po XT90’s would slowly go first. I do believe I should have gone for the 150A version especially with a 12S 12Ah Li-Po back rated at 12C (144A cont. max rating) this fuse is really only good for protecting against accidental shorts. I will install this fuse holder and swap the internal fuse to a 150A.
Can you send a link to where you got this fuse from?
I only seem to find ones rated for 32volts…
For the motor we are using an APS 80100 80kv. I am getting ready to paint the stator with epoxy. The first step was to remove the main bearing. It was tricky because there is a smaller bearing in the center. I used a cap to span the bearing and put the load onto the stator core. It worked well after the cap crushed down; the shaft bearing looks unaffected.
Today I prepared the stator for epoxy. I removed the wire insulation, covered the shaft bearing and threaded holes with e-tape and marked how far along the wires should have epoxy using the rear mast clamp.
The Maker Lab at SCU drilled holes in the motor cap for me to allow the wires to enter the clamp. They also 3D printed the mast clamp by V_S from the Volker build.
I will be filming the epoxy painting process for the stator and clamp parts. Stay safe and stay tuned!
The machine shop at SCU is also helping me with this project. The shop used the CNC to spot face the inside and outside of the bottom face. The purpose of this is to improve thermal conductivity when mounting the VESC and heat sink with thermal adhesive. The original surface was tarnished and I was worried would cause thermal resistance.
It was very hot today in Santa Clara, California. Despite using 2:1 resin to hardener ratio I was interrupted while painting epoxy onto the stator of our 80100 as my cup of epoxy began to smoke. I acted quickly to reduce the internal volume of the solution and the reaction stopped. It was a low risk situation but nonetheless startling.
The full mast clamp has been printed in ASA. I will sand it and coat it in XTC-3D. There is a gap between each piece however it will need to be addressed in version 2.
The mast was cut to 24" by the SCU machine shop. The holes in each end were tapped. Slots were milled for wires to enter the motor pod and exit near the top of the board. I am running the wires around the side of the board in this version. I hope to implement a more elegant solution in version 2.
The Prop is not good. I made many good eperiences with this prop:
Thank you for sharing! I am sure the prop I have printed will work fine. I appreciate you sharing this 2 blade prop for version 2. I bet it works great. As mentioned at the start of this build we are very interested in data-logging with this project. I hope through this approach we can compare props with additional granularity beyond good and bad. Our maker lab is using all of it’s 3D printers to make face shield parts for frontline covid-19 workers. I am not going to detract from that effort at this time for an efficiency gain when our primary goal is a working prototype. Please continue to share your suggestions and I will make note to implement, test and report my findings at a later date.
This is not my construkt of Prop , but he is realy good.
I have many print of props, but this one is only better then all. More Eta and fewer current, only not lost the speed.
it is really worthwhile to deal with this prop.
Best regards Frank
This prop is not for an 80100 right?
It is for Maytech /FS Inrunner motor.
It appears so. If someone could modify it to remove the slot and change it to two bolt holes it would be greatly appreciated.
The prop doesn’t care which engine turns in
I turned the adapter out of stainless steel.