Battery is removed yes. Like I’ve said I’ve had a feeling that was the cause since it makes perfect sense there is a noticeable click coming from the battery when turned on and off and if is never turned off then it would be stuck.
Sadly I suspect the battery that got unplugged last year is probably toast by now.
However a few months ago someone I sold an efoil to unplugged his so maybe I could get his (lift replaced it) then I’m waiting for lift any day now to replace another person’s battery which is exactly like the one that got unplugged but doesnt show a charging error but it does have voltage so once lift gets back im cracking that thing open while I still can. Would it be something as simple as applying a current to the relay causing it to switch over?
The relay shuts with 12V applied to it. Remove the voltage and it opens. If it’s damaged it won’t matter what you do its just damaged.
Same as once the BMS shows red lights, it seems to be disabled completely.
Sooo it sounds like the bms and relay would be ruined? I’ll just transfer them over from the ine I have open rn then. But why is the voltage so low? Like the last people to use it did say they ran it down really low but like it shouldn’t read 3.5v
I am very excited about this other battery. This is the one that was unplugged last year. The LED has since gone out so I assumed so did the cells. Measuring at the main power plug from the outside gave a 0.3v reading. Contrast with another battery that was unplugged a few weeks ago which have 3.5v I assumed it was dead. I opened it up today anyway to see if I could salvage anything and first off in not sure if its because the other one was new but this one came off in about 6 minutes and I didnt even put any visible damage to it, the lid glue didnt even stick it came right off. The last one I had to heat up which pulled the nickel off and also took hours to open with two people and left lots of visible damage.
Once inside I measured the voltage from the inside and 24v! I haven’t taken the cells out to test each group but I hope this is a good sign
Is it not possible to measure voltage without taking the cells out? Like what is the voltage reading I get if I measure from the top only but on both sides?
yeah did that. sorry i should have actually said what i meant. each individual group.
also on the topic… messuring before the relay is 24v messuring AFTER the relay is 0.04v, why? it’s like it’s closed enough that power can get through but that is still basically nothing, the other red battery i have at least outputs 3.5v, and also why can i use after the relay as ground? i can’t figure out where the connection is happening but it is.
yes i think so. i didn’t take the battery out but my messuring from the top going accross i was getting about 4v per group except for like 2 or 3 of them were 0. since i only have one bms and relay im not going to try and fix this battery. im thinking maybe i should just take the cells out and build and have fun with the working cells? lift got back to me so hopefully i can crack open the last battery as i have high hopes for it, just dont want to break the bms for no reason when installing it.
I apologize for taking so long to update but I’ve been away from this project for many months and just got back to it.
I just finished today replacing all the cells and spot welding everything back into place. Before all that I knocked the dead cells out of their pink eat shrink (forget trying to melt that epoxy its unnecessary) and got the new ones glued in place with silicon. I then used the thickest pure nickel tabs I could find to spot weld everything back together… Don’t be fooled it took FOREVER! But I got to the end and had to make a new connection to the positive terminal, I used some strips, built a little bracket and soldered some copper on top of the strip to reduce resistance as much as possible as a lot of current will flow through this connection.
I decided not to balance the cells very well and see if the BMS would restart and take care of that business for me so I got the BMS back into place and connected everything together. Nothing happened, no lights, nada, so I went ahead and plugged it into the charger. I rebooted with a blue and green lights but went to red right away.
I tested the thermistors located inside the power connector and everything I could find that seems safety critical and it all looks goods so far.
So I took everything appart again and I am charging every module to 4v as we speak. Maybe it work, maybe it doesn’t and something else is wrong or my BMS is shot… IDK I’m running out of ideas. I also tested F1 and F2 but they’re fine.
dang that sucks so maybe the bms can’t be restored.
Lift just told me they are sending me a new battery so now it means i can crack open the 3d and final battery which i have high hopes for since the cells weren’t sitting dead for a year, i need to transplant the bms and probably the relay from the dead never used battery onto the cells from this current battery.
how do I do that without killing the good bms since i only have one shot
The bus bar config on the pic has a risk to drive cell imbalance, it could be enough voltage drop on the way to the connection plate from the outer strings to load the center battery strings more than the others. I’d balance the connection resistances with some wires from each string to the plate.
Opening it up was NOT as easy as the last one it was extremely difficult but I still got it open faster than the first one and didn’t rip off any nickel however I did scuff up the lid getting it open but it’s mostly all cosmetic other than the corner that cracked (probably fixable).
Once inside I tested the relay and it does open and close however this one allows 5v through even when it’s open. (Other one allows 0.4v) fuse is ok so it is probably unplugged however the charger shows the charging symbol for some reason and the other one didn’t.
Now the voltages… overall the pack is actually only 20v and the other battery which has sat unused for about a year is 25v however this battery was run completely to 0% when it was last used so that could explain it however once again there are some groups reading 0v and weirdly enough it’s the exact same ones on the other battery
I don’t have a way to test the voltage of the bottom group so its unknown if it works or not.
Why and how is it possible that unplugging it while it’s still on causes an entire side to discharge enormously while also the other side is perfectly fine?
Adding a slow current voltage seems to hold in the cells though
Got my battery torn apart. Anyone wanna help me troubleshoot it? @Jezza perhaps since it seems you’re the only one having luck with resurrecting these things?
I get a single green light when it’s plugged in and then it changes to pink and blue lights and turns off.
I feel like there’s hope but could just be wishful thinking haha
You’d think lift would just make it easier for everyone and have a comprehensive guide on the bloody LEDs. Since I’ve used the entire lift ecosystem I’ve been thoroughly unimpressed with it and the complete lack of information available when something goes wrong. And everyone is in the same boat, even the resellers. It must have cost lift millions to replace all their warranty parts for badly designed systems…
Maybe upload a video of the LEDs so I can see exactly what happens.
Couldn’t agree more. I’m usually pretty good about finding things on the internet but no luck finding the led decryption keys haha I’ll send a video as soon as I get back to the battery!
