I see two reasons for this as well. Either it’s weight related or safety related. I personally think this is a fuse design.
But, even like this Lift got some battery catching fire, which makes me believe individual cell fuse might not be as good as we think…
Yes, the nickler plate (disk) has a fuse role. so there is that one point welding is used.
I have opened one of these and it is very easy
You do not need to destroy them
If anyone here has the board that is still good I need it
Thanks
Hey everyone,
I recently purchased a lift efoil, it arrived in December, but the battery malfunctioned at first charging attempt. They were super helpful and replaced it immediately.
I figured it would be a shame to just grow the old battery away and was wondering if there is anyone here who would like to purchase it?
I am based in Spain.
Let me know via pm.
Julius
How much you want for it
I pay more 
……………….
1 Like
Hey Julius. I pay 5000€.
Now you can sell for 5001€ to nice2cu.
You are welcome 
5 Likes
Good evening everyone,
I’ve opened two lift batteries so far and it’s pretty easy. Trickier is to repair, I think the BMS is full of failsafe. I was replacing the data connector on my last one and I’m happy with the job but now the battery is bricked. I’ve repaired and made data cables on a couple of occasion so I thought I would try my hand at the battery connector.
the battery is open right next to me so ask away.
My issue now lays I believe with the relay and the voltage sensor. There is a a voltage coming from the BMS that doesn’t corresponf to the battery pack actual voltage and i believe that is the fault that bricks the unit
1 Like
Hello again Everyone.
I have now read through the whole thread and there’s really good dynamic going on!
TL;DR Do not cut, split. Bricked lift battery replacing data port. Parts list and wiring diagram included.
parts I have sourced:
ODU data port G11K0C-P08LFG0-0000, this is the receptacle on the battery or the brain in the board
ODU data plug S11K0C-P08MFG0-5000, this is the both ends of the data cable and one end of the charger cable
generic automotive connector, charger to board data cable - I haven’t taken that one apart so no wiring details. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/776273-1?qs=VZ9FDhhp7SmYiN6cNJ9wsw%3D%3D
I used a portion of CAT6 to make a replacement data cable up, you need 5 cores.
00 stands for nothing goes there
Opening the battery pack, my advice is do not cut it. The mating surface of the top and bottom shell is grooved so split it open and it can easily be resealed and reused. No power tools needed, takes 10 minutes tops.
Small hammer and chisel, my nizzle.
Reason for opening my first battery, it bricked for no apparent reason. Wouldn’t wake up, wouldn’t charge, wouldn’t ride It was fairly new and was replaced under warranty but they won’t core them nor take them back at all, left alone repair them. I found nothing in there that could explain the bricking and didn’t dwell over too much. I’m more of a hardware kind of guy…
Second battery opening is because of a corroded data port I wanted to replace, a pin corroded and broke off inside the port. I sourced replacement parts with ODU. The battery had recently been used so it is assumed the BMS was fine.
The battery was near fully charged.Once opened the green lights kept going as normal. I disconnected the data connector from the BMS, still green lights. It only further opened an open circuit so no real surprise but I felt pretty good at that point.
To reach the back nut of the connector I had no choice but the remove the relay. I repaired and refitted the connector, refitted the relay and now the battery is bricked. I feel I must have triggered a fail safe. If anyone has plans to open a battery now I’m interrested in the voltage reading of the V sensor atop the relay.
Should have 3D printed a 19mm thin wall socket instead… that’s what I’ll do next time
I didn’t find a reset procedure in the thread but others have thought of it. Any leads on that or a way to do a hard reset?
For those of you who tried or understand the BMS more in depth could a complete power cycle of the BMS reset it?
Thanks.
2 Likes
Can someone tell me the part number of the current sensor?
I think it’s the LEM HO Series but no sure which one. (HO 250-S LEM USA Inc. | Sensors, Transducers | DigiKey)
Also can someone measure the resistance of the thermistors on the board and how to wire them?
Processing: LEM HO_100-S-0100_series.pdf…
i have already opened some batteries. It was always the EM HO_100-S-0100_series installed
Thermistors resistance 11,58 kΩ
1 Like
I’m trying to get the battery working but I can’t figure out wiring from the current sensor to the board. I bought the sensor but I must’ve wired it wrong. Because the bms turns off as soon as I connect it
Can someone please tell me the wiring from the LEM current sensor to the board?
Thank you so much my friend!
Hello Everyone,
I have a lift pack that bricked while away from home for a month. It shows red LEDs. I was able to hack the CAN Data feed and extract the feed for both a good and a bad battery connected to the delta-Q charger.
Supposedly it uses the CANopen protocol, which is described in document CiA 418 and 419 (attached here), but the messages are encoded and proprietary to the manufacturer according to a communication I had with a Delta-Q technician.
The feed is hexadecimal, and I am not knowledgeable enough to decode it. Anyone, wants to take a crack at it?!
Here’s a link to the folder with all the documents stored on a google Drive.
Cheers all!
3 Likes
LED 1 to 8 light up with which color?
all red, not a good sign! But it seems that this pack has so many failsafe that it might just be some components going bad, it’s been used very little and I doubt the cells are bad.
all 8 LEDs red this cannot be. which ones light up red?