I agree with you guys, now that I think about it. Correct me if I am wrong, but with 2 layers of 0,2x8mm pure nickel strip in a 14s12p batterypack, and assuming 10A continuous through a single 0,2x8mm strip, I should be able to pull roughly 240A continuously from the pack. I have no idea, why I chose such a small fuse. Although I doubt the 6 gauge wire between the battery and VESC can handle such power.
I cannot say, if switching the power on and off from the battery is possible with the daly BMS, as I have yet to use one in my builds - Although it sounds like a nice feature to have.
I use a 3 pin plug (same plug for charging) between the Battery and VESC with a 100ohm resistor with heatsink in series to prevent the spark, before plugging in the main power wires. This works great - but it is obviously not fool proof, as you need to know, that the 3 pin connector must be plugged in before the main power wires.
Regarding the mast adapter plate - I am using this to have an easy and fast way of attaching and detaching the mast and still keeping a waterproof compartment. As I don’t want to glue the phase wires inside the mast for waterproofing, I use cable glands for sealing the wires, and the adapter plate with a groove for a silicone o-ring for sealing against the underside of the board.
On my previous board, did I have to unscrew the cable glands everytime I was detaching the foildrive. This was very annoying, and I knew this had to change on my second attempt.
You could silicone the wires directly to the mast plate/mast, but imagine if you need to someday remove the motor from the mast. When building both my Efoil, I was pulling the motor on and off the mast many times - can’t imagine the headache, if the phase wires was siliconed inside the mast/mast plate (just something to think about).
The advantages of using an o-ring, is that the connection between the mast and board will be rigid (hard surface against hard surface). With a silicone slice between, you might have a not so rigid connection.
All this is just my take on it:)
Hi Gustav, thank you for sharing, that’s truly a very nice and professional build!
Could you please share, what sealing did you use to seal your hatch? Is it some sort of a rubber tube? Did you glue a ring out of a strip and how did you glue the sealing to your board?
Does your hatch really stays dry during the rides? I have never managed to keep mine dry, there is always water inside after the session.
Hi Stouk,
I’ve been using this rubber seal on both my efoils and other project the past years: Türdichtung Dichtungsband Selbstklebend,Haustür Türrahmen Dichtung Flexibel,Türdichtungen Gummidichtung Wasserdicht,Dichtungsband Fenster Tür,Door Seal Dichtungsstreifen Dichtungsgummi (D-Schwarz,6M) : Amazon.de: Baumarkt
It comes with preinstalled adhesive, which has been solid for 2 seasons on my first board. I have used normal rubber contact adhesive for connecting the ends together.
I did have a problem with small amounts of water getting into the compartment with my first board, but that was due the flex in the hatch. On this second attempt, I have made the hatch more stiff by using 4 layers of 300g fiberglass on both sides of the 12mm marine ply, and added braces in each side to furthermore stiffen the hatch - this has yet to leak on me!!
I use 3d printed shims under the hinges, to get the right amount of compression on the rubber seal.
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Hi Gustav, thank you for the info and for the link!
I have used a ready-made hatch from AliExpress that leaked every ride despite a seemingly good compression along the whole perimeter of the seal.
I have used three different types of seal, but to no avail.
The 12 mm reinforced ply seems strong! I’ll try to make a new hatch then, thank you!