Few days ago I ordered my 80100 motor and now it’s time for a strong battery!
Which would you recommend me or should I build my own
IF I should build my own:
Which spotwelder?
How big the battery and which cells?
Where can I get such a strong bms?
If I should buy one:
Where?
Hi, I don’t know where you are from, but I can recoment the sony vtc6 batteries from nkon. I have made my own spotwelder from a microwave oven transformer and it works realy well.
My battery pack is 14s11p and I only use a bms for charging.
Thanks a lot for this detailed information,
I am from Austria(Salzburg) and I don’t have a spotwelder now. Can you reccomend me a spotwelder? Specs:
1kwh
100amps output
14s
18650 cells
What about 18650 30q or 25r cells? Are the ratings correct?
If you want a 1kwh pack at 14s that would be something like 14s7p. The 30q is rated for 15A max. So this pack could deliver 7x15A is 105A max. If you want 100A discharge in a small pack I would buy the sony vtc6 they are rated at 30A.
I can not recommend you a spotwelder because I have only used my diy spotwelder so far.
@tinp123
Ok I think I’m gonna buy the arduino spotwelder and thanks that you would build a battery for me but I want to learn how to build one and will make more batteries not only for my efoil.
Can I make lots of issues and do you have tips for me?
So what about this site and this cells:
25r is my favourite because very cheap and high discharge rate and in total it’s much cheaper then 30q
building batteries is very dangerous, because you can short it really easy and fire from lithium ion batteries is not so easy to put out. not just that, if one battery catches fire, there will be chain reaction because of high temperature and every battery next to it will do the same. you have to be absolutely sure what you are doing.
why do you specifically want 25R? they are older batteries with much higher internal resistance and voltage sag than 30Q. on page that you linked, they are much more expensive than 30Q on nkon, so why would you get them from there? shipping from nkon is like 12 eur. you will get 30Q for 2,99 eur if you order 200 pcs. if you insist on 25R, they are 2,40 eur for 200 pcs on nkon (Samsung INR18650-25R 2500mAh - 20A - 18650 - Li-ion - Rechargeable batteries | NKON)
but trust me, go with 30Q. you won’t regret it.
arduino comes with electrodes, but tips are just copper wires, and they bend. it is a little bit irritating to work with them. but they do work, yeah. I am much more happier with kweld electrodes. I have to work with both hands, but every weld is perfect. and you will need lipo battery with each of those spot welders.
I made a spot welder using a 340CCA car battery and bought the leads from https://malectrics.eu/. The other parts I used were:
Solenoid - £6.53 6% Off | Dual Battery Start relay 4 Pin Large Current 500A 12V 24VDC Car Power Switch,Starting Relay,Auto Start Contactor,Heavy current https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/X0jqIEM
Digital delay timer - £2.31 23% Off | Micro USB Digital LCD Display Time Delay Relay Module DC 6-30V Control Multifunction Timer Switch Trigger Cycle Module Board https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bKKvi1vm
Yes. You can actually get away with smaller if you build/wire it correctly. The current should be pulled “evenly” across your parallel group. For example, if you had a 12P battery on your 5kW load, you want to try and pull 8.3A from each series string (if that makes sense!?)
Forgot to say … Based on experience, use the ~27mm nickel strap if you’re going to build your battery with the cells standing on end. It’s loads easier to work with.