As my 80100 motor is arriving next week I want to order the parts for the battery today soooooo.
I think I will do 14s8p with vtc6 cells. But how is it with connecting this cells together so I don’t pull 200a from one ni strip. And should i get spacers? Or just hotglue them together?
Thanks
I would say spacers, draw up somthing I will check it for you if you want
Ok I will do that thanks for your support
is this correct and how do i need to connect the bms?
Black connections are double nickel stripes.
Thanks
Which bms do you have? With 14 or 15 balance wires?
Also, take care where and how are you going to connect main positive and main negative of battery with wires. You will have to use few layers of nickel or braided copper wire or you will have to solder wire on few places. You can’t just solder wire on the end of positive and negative group like on your picture
Ok so from all 8 cells 8 cables connect to one ?
So I don’t pull 120amps from one strip
You can do it few ways, you can do it with cables too. But solder them on nickel between batteries, not directly on battery. And yes thats the reason, so all 120 amps wont go through only one nickel strip
how di i need to connect the bms?
thanks
Which bms do you have? With 14 or 15 balance wires? Do you want to connect bms for both charge and discharge or charge only?
Discharge only and that’s my bms:
https://www.amazon.de/Schutzplatine-Zellschutzplatine-Ausgleichfunktion-Aluminium-Kühlkörper/dp/B07PLX9K9X/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=14s+bms&qid=1564487578&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Black balance wires goes on main battery negative, every next wires goes between parallel groups, which means: first white balance wire next to black balance wire goes between first and second group, second white wire goes between second and third group and so on… Last balance wire is red which goes on main battery positive, after 14th group.
Next step: new wire (14 or 16 awg or any thickness that can pull you charging current) goes from battery main negative to B- on bms. From bms, there goes wire from C- to negative side of your charging port. Positive wire from charging port goes to battery main positive.
Now you have bms wired for discharge only. You have to install thick black wire from battery negative and another thick red wire from battery positive which goes to your connector (as150, sq8… Or which ever you choose) which connects to your esc. This is how you will discharge battery directly, bypassing bms. I hope I did not make it to complicated 
When i got the parts I will send you some pictures while I build it ok? I really need help for that!
Thanks
Sure, no problem. Be extra carefull and read about batteries as much as you, can
i will do that
thanks in advance
what happens if you use 14s bms on 12s battery? any problem?
Yep, most bms won’t work that way. You need 12s bms for 12s battery.
Does anyone have a good solution to keeping the cells cool under use? According to all the research I’ve done it seems like failing to have a good cooling system will result in very short cell life?
Hm yes I know that some companys pump a liquid through the spaces between the cells and cool it like that my battery looks like this and it’s never getting hot, warm but never hot.
Proven passive solutions I’ve read here and there (pls correct me if I am wrong):
1 - increase the battery capacity ie the y number in xS-yP battery configuration, ie the number of cells in parallel. We frequently see 12s-12p but 12s-14p or even 12s-15p is a good way to maintaining temp low. A bit more costly/heavy/space consuming though.
2 - (slightly) decrease your riding time: experienced users know precisely the battery voltage or the total Wh of their pack in order not to go bellow the 20% remaining limit. @Alexandre has posted a nice table for LiPo batteries some time ago (Volts vs remainning Wh). here … How low can you go? - Electronics (ESC, remote, batteries) - FOIL.zone
For paramotors it’s a matter of life and death…
3 - possibly read on batteryuniversity.com, don’t charge your battery to 100% but rather 95%.
4 - use pure nickel strips and not iron-nickel plated strips (cheaper) to assemble the battery pack, the less ohms, the better,
…
I understand all that and have been using battery packs successfully for a couple years now, I just have seen major manufacturers like car companies switching to actively cooled packs. Even though cells on the outside feel cool, interior ones could be getting quite warm. Nissan had a huge issue with battery degradation on their larger battery packs and not the smaller ones and the blame was put on heat especially during charging.
