My 2ct worth:
-
The Flipsky watersport kit is nice, but the propeller is FAR too big: I used it at the beginning and found it VERY hard to control, and only later realized that the massive blades are an issue when you go off the power, because they immediately turn into resistance and you nosedive into the water. I used 3D-printed props, which are fine until you breach at full power and they can spin off their blades.
But I ended with the one from Flite ( Discussion: Fliteboard prop for Flipsky 65161 ) It is the best option, if you can ream out the hole from
10.95 → to 12mm I used a stand-drill and it went smoothly - perfect balance!
When I snap my finger against a 3D prop I hear a “clack” sound - with the Flite it is a crisp “ping” sound: The injection plastic is tougher, harder and smoother, and the cost is almost the same as a 3D printed, ordered one. -
I used the 75200 pro V2 , because it has Bluetooth and comes with the button that turns off the complete unit: No sparks no battery drainage.
The bluetooth is handy when you want to tweak the setting while sitting on the dock and not at your laptop. -
I chose to put everything (Batteries, Controller) in a waterproof Photo-Suitcase from Amazon (LYcus HC-3310 ) and was impressed that it is 100% watertight even submerged. Very easy to build
-
The box allows me the flexibity to use my setup in 2 ways and the change only takes 15min:
A) As an efoil, I used a simple tie-down strap to attach the box to the end of the board: I can stand comfortable with my rear-foot touching the box, which gives me the perfect position for balancing over my foil.
B) or: I move the mast over to an old surfboard from the dump that I have cut in half: → tow-boogie -
Ever since I tried it as a tow-boogie I don’t want to go back to the efoil: I can use my favorite wingfoil board with whatever foil I choose and when the wind dies, I get the boogie out and continue my session with the “electric wind”.
The board is lighter and more responsive and there is no resistance from the motor on the mast of my foil. -
Watercooling is not really necessary: The ProV2 only comes as an aircooled controller. I used that directly in the box without cooling and could go on efoil for about 30min before it reached 70C in Summer (shown ‘live’ in remote so you know when to pause). In winter I could go longer. As a Tow-Boogie it got hotter (15min max) So I have glued a larger aluminum plate on the outside of the box and removed the plastic to mount the controller directly to that plate. Even when just aircooled it was very usable. Now I have the box sitting in a bit of water and the temps never exceed 32C.
I made that choice because I didn’t want to guide water with tubes into my box: I saw the risk of that leaking as higher than my glue method (Camping-van Roof-Window sealant: Flexible and bulletproof: I used 8 screws to squeeze both sides together and sealant is also OVER all screwholes on both sides.)
Good luck with your build!