yes, i changed the stab, but not really to get more speed, i’ve come to realise that the stab and wing need to match quite well to have a nice ride - i’m sure this is obvious to experienced foilers but it took some trials before i understood this. The huge stab i had with my first wing was too stable and lifted the front of the board too much so i got a curve stab to go with the curve wing. I’ve since gone to fluid and veloce stabs but there the differences are smaller.
1 Like
Thanks for the reply.
I’m thinking of switching to the CURVE LT. Which stabilizer would you recommend?
My favourite so far has been the veloce 42 stab, it’s probably related to both riding and personal preference but i think that as long as you get a smaller stab than what i started with (rise 45) you’re good.
thanks for the information
How did you deal with the antenna of the controller? Just got a fliteboard pro curious how well it will work within the battery bay? I notice a multipin connector that goes into the side of the battery bay which I imagine one is an antenna.
Do you mean there ?
Yes,i made a cut inside the block and put the antenna inside from the top. The cable is directly connected to the receiver. After the ride I get the antenna out of the block.
@MBard
These photos are included in your post 13. It appears you are using the stock length antennae lead for the Flipsky 75200 vesc in the photos.
Can you confirm you used the extended length antennae available for the VX3 remote on the Flipsky site to route the wire to the foam and if so which length did you choose 1.5m or 3m??
We have the “non” carbon version of the board, and the lid of the “vesc” box is from PETG.
Both GPS and receiver antenna’s are inside the box, and use the FeRo remote.
We have absolutely no RX/TX problems when the board is underwater (before starting).
GPS lock does sometimes take a little bit longer to get the lock.
1 Like
I ended up with the 100l Carbon Classic.
Great deal from a Fliteschool. A little cosmetic fix up but structurally like new!!
Lots of visible CF on bottom but Ash wood layer on topsides so not sure what’s under that.
Hopefully topsides are not signal blocking but won’t know until I get it on the water. I have a Flipsky antennae extender that I can move it forward like @MBard did that hopefully would solve that issue.
Waiting for Flite adapter plate to be fabricated. Wish I had a CNC and the skill to use it!
I don’t wait well 
I’ve never had good luck with the flipsky antenna extender. If anything for me it reduced the range.
On some esp32 boards with a pcb antenna + external ipex connector you have to move a 0ohm resistor from one location to another to make the external antenna work.
I’ll message flipsky and see what they say.
I have a friend that has used one successfully. They had the back of the board submerged and didn’t have sufficient signal to start reliably. Clipped the longer wire on and problem solved.
The cable is just a longer version of what comes with the remote so I can’t see how that could cause trouble???
The range of the default VX3 setup is hundreds of feet if both ends are not submerged or otherwise blocked.
I tested submerging the actual remote in a bucket of water right next to the 75200 VESC and I had to really get it deep before signal loss occurred so reasonably robust connection
I was using the external antenna on a tow boogie thinking it would give longer range but it didn’t. For an efoi it would work fine to get the signal from the nose back to the receiver.
Antenna design is super tricky to get right, even the length of traces on the PCB between the transmitter chip and connector can affect over all range and need tuning.
1 Like
Useful signal strength info is available on VX3
I can’t find a reference but I think I read that the VX3 uses 2.4 band which has good signal penetration. Much better than a Bluetooth connection anyway.
For the first test i hope, that the original antenna works. The signal lost if the board was underwater. so i changed to the 1.5m extended antenna. For the extended antenna you desolder the 0R Resistor for the standard antenna.
see the post: When will the Flipsky VX3 be released? - #73 by YAHEF
After that i don’t have problems with the connection.
1 Like
Nice work on the battery build! would you mind sharing why you chose the Samsung T40 cells? After doing research I also went with the T40s for my 14S8P build. After purchasing I started to think I should have gotten the 1650 30Q instead. but I really am not sure.
Would you be willing to share what you are using for a BMS? I read up a lot of information how they work because there are different types. Almost ordered from a company in china, but they required minimum purchase of 2. So I just bought a cheep one on Amazon, have not installed it because I am unsure of its quality.
Hi @MBard,
Looks interesting.
Do you have an experience that cooling from mast is not enough?
Also how do you think to deal with salt cleaning inside the cooling channel in case of sea surfing?
@MBard Did you utilize the oem fliteboard cable here? I noticed on my used V1
the connector and cable pictured below are still in the board. I assume for the GPS/Reciever. Would have to pull the no slip materail back to see if I could remove it.
The original Fliteboard cable is not used. In front of the board where the arming pad is located, you can carefully remove the cover pad. there are 4 small stainless steel screws at the corners. Then you can remove the oval GPS module from the board. At the bottom, next to all the silicone grease, there is a vehicle connector to unplug the cable. then it can be removed through the 20mm conduit. but this doesn’t help much, as you can simply push the antenna past the cable or cut it down