Hello,
i bought a used fliteboard pro V1. The first step was to construct a adapter plate.
For this I milled a 15 mm thick aluminum plate. The outsides are milled down to 7mm. In the underside, the cables are sealed in a duct and routed through the panel. The mast foot is screwed into the aluminum plate with M6 screws but not drilled through so that no water can penetrate.
The board is currently under construction and not ready yet. So I can’t say yet if everything will work in the end.
On top of the aluminum plate, the controller (Flipsky FESC75200 aircooled) is installed in an extra aluminum housing (Bopla A115) to protect it from water ingress. The controller should be passively cooled by dissipating the heat to the aluminum housing and then to the adapter plate.
The Bopla case had small feet on the bottom. As a result, it could not lie completely on the base plate. Therefore it was milled off about 0.5mm on the underside.
The inside of the housing was also milled to dissipate the waste heat as well as possible.
The case of the Flipsky ESC was removed and cleaned. The manufacturer used a lot of thermal paste here. Then the cooling fins were milled to get the best possible heat dissipation to the housing.
The VESC is fixed in the housing by 3D printed parts. Here I am still considering whether the holder should not be better made of metal to avoid problems at high temperatures.
In retrospect, I decided to cool the mast plate with 4mm wide cooling channels. At the points where the cooling channels are, the plate is still 15mm thick.
The milling of the 4mm deep cooling channels should not affect the stability.
The water is fed through a hose from the mast clamp into the cooling channels by means of dynamic pressure. Due to the channels on the underside there are no water lines inside the board, but the controller is still water-cooled.
What a fantastic thread! I’ve been saying for ages someone needs to do this! I think this will be a great success and the quality of the Fliteboards is amazing!
Thanks,
The advantage is that you can buy the Fliteboards as boards only for a very fair price. The quality is really good and if everything works out as planned in the end you get a great board for a good price.
That looks great. I hope that the watercooling will be enough to cool down the ESC.
It is enough. Aslo alu box attached to mast is a big alu heatsink.
Great build! I have a couple of DIY boards and also a Flite Pro v1 (full kit). New kid arrived so no time to make combinations like you… Hope you will share CAD here.
Can only say that the board is great and easily worth 1500€ even for hardcore DIY:ers.
If you plan on integrating the Flite remote reciever and need a remote, then I have an extra v1 that I can let go for 100€ as long as you share how you integrated 
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Congrats on the new arrival. It’s amazing how a new kid steals your time! Mines just over 1 now and all projects feel like they are at a standstill…
