Hello,
i bought a used fliteboard pro V1. The first step was to construct a adapter plate.
For this I milled a 15 mm thick aluminum plate. The outsides are milled down to 7mm. In the underside, the cables are sealed in a duct and routed through the panel. The mast foot is screwed into the aluminum plate with M6 screws but not drilled through so that no water can penetrate.
The board is currently under construction and not ready yet. So I can’t say yet if everything will work in the end.
On top of the aluminum plate, the controller (Flipsky FESC75200 aircooled) is installed in an extra aluminum housing (Bopla A115) to protect it from water ingress. The controller should be passively cooled by dissipating the heat to the aluminum housing and then to the adapter plate.
The Bopla case had small feet on the bottom. As a result, it could not lie completely on the base plate. Therefore it was milled off about 0.5mm on the underside.
The inside of the housing was also milled to dissipate the waste heat as well as possible.
The case of the Flipsky ESC was removed and cleaned. The manufacturer used a lot of thermal paste here. Then the cooling fins were milled to get the best possible heat dissipation to the housing.
The VESC is fixed in the housing by 3D printed parts. Here I am still considering whether the holder should not be better made of metal to avoid problems at high temperatures.
In retrospect, I decided to cool the mast plate with 4mm wide cooling channels. At the points where the cooling channels are, the plate is still 15mm thick.
The milling of the 4mm deep cooling channels should not affect the stability.
The water is fed through a hose from the mast clamp into the cooling channels by means of dynamic pressure. Due to the channels on the underside there are no water lines inside the board, but the controller is still water-cooled.
What a fantastic thread! I’ve been saying for ages someone needs to do this! I think this will be a great success and the quality of the Fliteboards is amazing!
Thanks,
The advantage is that you can buy the Fliteboards as boards only for a very fair price. The quality is really good and if everything works out as planned in the end you get a great board for a good price.
That looks great. I hope that the watercooling will be enough to cool down the ESC.
It is enough. Aslo alu box attached to mast is a big alu heatsink.
Great build! I have a couple of DIY boards and also a Flite Pro v1 (full kit). New kid arrived so no time to make combinations like you… Hope you will share CAD here.
Can only say that the board is great and easily worth 1500€ even for hardcore DIY:ers.
If you plan on integrating the Flite remote reciever and need a remote, then I have an extra v1 that I can let go for 100€ as long as you share how you integrated 
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Congrats on the new arrival. It’s amazing how a new kid steals your time! Mines just over 1 now and all projects feel like they are at a standstill…
I finished my build and the first testrides. Here are some pictures from the build.
Print the mastclamp with carbon-PLA
Build the battery case. I print the upper and lower frame with the 3d printer (black parts). The sideparts and bottom and top plate are 1.5mm glassfibre.
Laminate the edge with glassfibre and epoxy to make it more stable. For savety i insert a 200A fuse. There will be no BMS inside. I load the battery with a Junsi 4010 Charger. I use a 7Pin connector for the balancer plug.
I use 2 packs with 6S 8P 21700 Samsung 30T because it is easy to load with modelsport charger. It is important that the battery isn’t higher than 80mm.
Great build. How do your cables go from the GONG mast plate to the top of your custom Flite plate ?
For x-ref purpose, there is also this other Flite board project from @t-dub-maui :
'My simple bolt-on build on Maui (VESC, 6384, 10s2p) - #33 by t-dub-maui
Nice build, I like the way you put the ESC on the mast. I know that there is a seal between the flight adapter and the board, nevertheless, I suggest you improve the seals entering the metal box. If you use your efoil in salt water, a single drop of water can kill your ESC. I’ve lost several ESCs due to water ingress.
The cable come from middle of the mast and go through the channel to the side. The picture shows the bottom side where the mast plate screwed. The channel and the holes are filled with silicone that no water can come in.
This is a picture without the cooling channels. i milled it later.
All the cables from the esc box are glued with silicon. Normally i drive in with the board in freshwater. Maybe a few times in the Baltic Sea. If water comes inside the boards, the water sensor make noise.
The battery fits perfect inside the box. I put a thin anti slip mat on the battery to prevent slipping.
In the front there is a block of EPS. The white part near the battery connector is a watersensor which is fixed in a 3D printed plate. The plate prevents the battery from slipping backwards. I use QS8 Connectors for the battery.
For the first test i taped the antenna on the top of the esc box. But when starting, the back of the board was under water and the connection to the receiver was very bad. If the board was out of the water for a moment, you could start. During the ride it was no longer a problem. I have now extended the antenna and placed it in the EPS part in front of the battery. Since then there have been no more problems.
Pictures of the completed Board. I use a gong Curve MT Wing at a 85cm Mast. The watercooling works great. The VESC doesn’t get warm.
The board feels great at Riding and make much fun.
For people who can’t build a board or don’t have enough time for it, the Fliteboard is the perfect starting point. The board is of good quality and can be bought directly from Flite from around 2000 euros (glass fiber version). Due to the structure with the electronics directly on the mast, the board can also be changed without any problems. For example, you can buy a normal Fliteboard for beginners and when you have learned it you can easily switch to the Pro or Ultra board. Or buy the Air for traveling. No changes are made to the board during the conversion, so it is still 100% compatible with the Flite components.
For me it was the best decision to build the board like this. It is of very high quality and the battery box is 100% waterproof.
You can adapt the board to your own needs (wings, motor, ESC) and end up with a top board.
