Frankenstein build (Fliteboard, Gong V2 mast, Flipsky 75200 VESC and in my case a Tritonfoils X1 monofoil)

[Kian]

Wanted to do this for some time now, but as I’m in my test week for school I have not much time at this moment to write a full report.

I’m going to post all pictures I have taken during the build, and if something is not clear, or if you have a question, then please do not hesitate to ask.

I will also add some comments with the pictures when I have time todo so.

But. 1st I would like to thank @MBard and @vincent. They helped and inspired me with this build.
So, a BIG thank you Marcel and Vincent! <3

Main difference between the Marcel and Vincent build is that Marcel left the VESC in its original casing.
Because of this some milling is needed on the VESC casing (removed the cooling slots).
Vincent removed the casing completely and put the VESC PCB’s cooling plate directly on the CNC’ed aluminium base plate.

Both ways will work perfect, but we opted for the Vincent way.

The battery we used is a 12S9P (Samsung 40T cells) with a Jiabaida BMS, and made by @Pjotr (we do not have the tools to do this ourself, and Pjotr has lots of experience with this).
The battery casing/box itself is a copy of @MBard, with some small modifications to it.

@MBard build can be found here:

Diy Efoil with Fliteboard

@vincent build can be found here:

Build on a Weekend

@t-dub-maui did also a build with a Fliteboard.
His build can be found here:

My simple bolt-on build on Maui (VESC, 6384, 10s2p) - #33 by t-dub-maui

Some additional data:

• All CNC’ed parts are from 6061 aluminum and have been done by PCBway
• All 3D printed stuff is in PETG (used our own 3D printer)
• Board is a new (series 3) Fliteboard PRO Fibreglass 67 liters 5’ x 24.5" board. (The internal size of the main box is 305x390x80mm).
• Vesc is a Flipsky 75200 (a non Flipsky branded, but exactly the same and really cheap can be found here!) and here a teardown
• Motor used is a Flipsky 65161/120KV
• Remote is a FelixRemote.
• Battery is 12S9P (thank you @Pjotr) (more info here and here.)
• BMS used is a JBD Smart BMS.
• Mast is a Gong V2 65cm with the Gong V2 top plate.
• Wing is a Triton X1 monofoil
• Passive cooling rocks!

---

• Weight of setup: Board:10.4kg, Battery: 9.3kg, Wing: 1.5kg, Mast/motor/prop/VESC/adapter: 7.5kg
• Total ready to go weight: 28.7kg

.STEP file for mast plate (made by @vincent) can be downloaded from here:

Adapterplatte Alu 15mm Flipsky 75200 Alu V2 Gong V2.step

Please note that the Vincent version I am using does have some miner changes.

.STEP file for mast plate and more (made by @MBard) can be downloaded from here:

Fliteboard

We have done a lot of static testing before the actual maiden and never managed to get the temperature above 42c when running WOT for about 10 minutes. (@+/-120 amps!).
See: https://youtube.com/shorts/KkhOWFfgfsw

Additional note: We are using a FelixRemote with this build. This FelixRemote is powerful and does work perfect even when the board (receiver!) is submerged in water (example when starting). I do not know if any other remote will work!

---

The internal size of the main box is 305x390x80mm

[Kian]

The one on the left is @MBard his version. The one on the right is @vincent his version.

Doing some test fitting.
Note the removed small parts in the Gong mast plate. This was needed to be able to fix the aluminium plate to the board. We also needed to drill 4 new holes in the Gong plate to be able to fix the Gong mast plate to the aluminium plate. Unfortunately there is no other way of doing this.

[Kian]

Look. No hose for the cooling

The potting to stop water entering. We used a syringe to make sure it was also in the part between the mast top plate and the adapter plate. The blue part you are seeing is used to create a “wall” for stopping the potting going all over.

[Kian]

Hard to see on the picture, but we needed to add some “blocks” with threads to hold down the VESC onto the base plate. We used superglue. Drilling a hole in the baseplate and threading it could be an option, but as it’s only 5mm thick at that point we decided to do it this way.

Using the original VESC aluminium L clamp with the glued blocks for securing the VESC.

This stuff ( PLASTIK 70 ) does wonders (and smells great)

The VincentRemote with it’s GPS puck fixed to the lid of the “Vesc” box.
Remote signals are no problem, however the GPS lock does need some time!

We have replaced the 3D printed lid (picture above) with a CNC’ed perspex version.

Potting of the VESC. The green gasket has been 3D printed with NinjaFlex.

[Kian]

12S9P made by @Pjotr

The official Fliteboard battery data. Make sure you stay (size wise) within this size, or it will not fit in the board!

@MBard his battery casing design (slightly modified)

For extra security we added a 200 amp fuse.

It fits (just)

---

The Tritonfoils X1 monofoil to Gong V2 DIY adapter

[Kian]

reserved for additional pictures - information

[S_Roger]

Hey @Kian thank you for sharing so many detailed photos! I’ve also been inspired by the work of @MBard and @vincent and am working on my first build using this Fliteboard approach. I have most of the parts in my office now tempting me while I am supposed to work. Your photos will help me think through the assembly process. I don’t have specific questions for you at the moment but I am sure some will come up.

Also the Tritonfoil looks interesting, and nicely done. Hopefully you can share your thoughts when you eventually try it out!

[Foilguy]

@Kian

Wonderful resource - thank you!!

Studies come first so no urgency on response.

@MBard made a battery case that didn’t completely fill the compartment of the Fliteboard and you mentioned that yours was “altered”.

Did you come up with a way to utilize the “retention” clip(s) that Fliteboard uses to keep their battery in place?

Also a bit curious about the vesc box in the photo having three glands on it??

[t-dub-maui]

This is really well done! Very impressive!

[Kian]

re: @MBard made a battery case that didn’t completely fill the compartment of the Fliteboard and you mentioned that yours was “altered”.

We added the handgrip, changed the position of the battery connectors and added a charge port (the XT60) underneath the handgrip. We also removed the middle spacer so our 12S9P would fit.
Size wise it’s exactly the samen

re: Did you come up with a way to utilize the “retention” clip(s) that Fliteboard uses to keep their battery in place?

We are not using the retention clips, but this winter we will make a 15S battery with LG Chem E63B pouches, and try to use them.

re: Also a bit curious about the vesc box in the photo having three glands on it??

The VESC box you are seeing was the initial plan. Two glands for the battery wires, and one for a data cable. The data gland did not lineup nicely, and we also decided that it was not really needed.

[sniper]

Awesome work ! You touch the perfect set up Mono wing gong mast v2 simple vesc passif cooled ans the perfect flite board and one of the best remote on the market and a beautiful work !
and the plug for the gong mast ,nice design thank for sharing that !

[S_Roger]

Hi @Kian, I am finally getting to the stage in my slow build where I am assembling my ESC box on top of the adapter plate. I have the same adapter plate you (and others) have used. It seems you attached your 3d printed housing with screws and tapped some threads into the aluminum. I’m wondering if you applied any silicone or glue as well between those two parts?

[Kian]

Hi Silas,

Nice. Another build. You are really going to love it.

Anyway. You are correct. I drilled 6 holes, and tapped them with M4.
The holes are only 5 mm deep, and so do not go through the plate! (You could go deeper if needed)

I did not glue the box. The only part I used “silicone” was by filling the box till just above the capacitors of the VESC (after testing everything!)
To stop the silicone running out at the bottom of the box before curing I used some tape.

[S_Roger]

Thanks, I’m actually wondering about the bottom surface of the 3d printed housing and where it rests on the aluminum. You mechanically fastened with the 6 screws, but no additional glue or sealant along that interface? I have a different box that I will have to glue down (probably with 3M 5200), was just curious what you had done

[Kian]

No. No glue used. Only the 6 screws (and internal silicone) is keeping the 3d printed box in place.
The 3D printed box is more or less an optical thing. Theoretically it is not needed.

[Ranelson93]

Great build

What silicone did you use to pot the plate and ESC box?

[Windigo]

I just used regular clear silicone from the hardware store no issues.

[Kian]

Yes. Same here. Normal silicone.

We used sandpaper to roughen the 3 phase wires from the motor to make the silicone bond better where needed.

We also plastic coated the VESC with plastic spray before covering it with silicone.

[Ranelson93]

Thank you both for your input

I was just curious since you mentioned you used a syringe to apply it between the plates so was interested to know if it was a pourable silicone or not.

[Kian]

Yes. It was hard to do, and I needed to make the “hole” of the syringe bigger to make it possible.