Checked my circuit brakes, switches, buttons and wondered do I need anti-spark switch if I have Amass XT90-S connectors?
Expected to order
Flipsky Antispark Switch Pro V3.0 280A Flipsky Antispark Switch Pro V3.0 280A (heatsink)
for Flipsky 6374 Motor 140KV 3600W (36v, 20-60A pick battery load)
Why are you so worried about sparks? I’ve never used anti-spark connectors or switches.
@Pavel a spark will happen any time you connect a circuit with high enough voltage if there isn’t some sort of on-off switch, a precharge circuit, or anti-spark connector. efoil batteries will make a noticeable snapping spark without some means of addressing it. I believe it will ruin the esc if it happens too many times. Your surron battery pack must have something built in already to handle it.
@Vitalii on my efoil I have QS8 anti spark connectors and that’s it. I know there are other builds like this on Foil Zone. Maybe someone else will explain why an anti spark switch is better, but for now I’m happy with just the connector. I suppose the switch would allow for powering off the foil and still leaving the battery connected, but I prefer to just disconnect the battery completely.
@S_Roger how many times does it gotta go down before the ESC gets wrecked?
I love that crispy click-spark when I hook up the battery, makes me feel like it’s ready to rip.
Some peeps use anti-spark connectors on the phase wires too, though.
I have never heard of the sp arching causing damage to the ESC, but it will wear out the connectors eventually - pitting the contact surfaces, which could cause hose resistance and eventually over heating.
Not as much of an issue on smaller VESC with smaller capacitors - Foildrive does not use them for example, but for anything bigger I think it’s a must.
A lot of the antispark connectors have smaller contact areas, and thus lower current ratings, so that’s something you have to weigh up as well.
The current surges actually will damage the input capacitors of the ESC.
I have seen a few ESCs that blew up their (decent quality) capacitors. Although I cannot say for sure it was (only) because of the current surges it sure won’t make them live longer 
AS conenctors never worked for me, not made for 20S 84V batteries, they always blow up… I use a 10 Ohm resistor for precharge, then connect the main connector.
Foil drive avoid anti spark because the dielectric grease if applied every time does that job. But they’ve had complete failures with their batteries and escs on their gen2 where guys just haven’t bothered with dielectric grease.
I just just use as150 on the power positive for my 10s11p. Without anitispark its quite a big snap when you hookup power and it cannot be good for esc.
Good practice to use precharge. Killed one, maybe two bike controllers just connecting battery. An extra wire with a 100ohm resistor and some seconds waiting is ok to avoid it.
True, but it would take a lot of connections to actually wear out the connectors. Most of the wear comes from friction.
What exactly broke? Was it the capacitors or something else?
People use these anti-spark circuits to switch using magnetic sensor - reed/hall.
If done correctly, to my mind they are safe and good solution.
They cost a lot from some reason, despite consisting of mainly a mosfet.
I plane to build it sometimes.
It can fullfill several functions:
I have not yet found it is important to me, so I simply stay with spark protected connector
I don’t have a switch I only put the battery in the case when I’m ready to go and remove it right after a ride. I have anti-spark connectors on the positive terminal some say the huge spark can fry your VESC so why not have them but I used it without them for a while no issues.